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Every profession has tools of the trade, and the tattoo industry is no exception. All the ink, flash, stencils and needles in the world would be worthless without the tattoo gun. Your tattooist will definitely know what you're talking about when you used the word "gun", but it's a generally thought of as an amateur term. Professionals usually just say "machine" or use the term "iron".
The first tattoo machines where based on something Thomas Edison (that's right, that Thomas Edison) invented in the year 1876 called the Autograph Engraver. The device was originally meant to be an engraving machine. The design was improved upon some years later by a man named Samuel O'Rielly who came up with and needle and rod system and ink reservoir. The modern day machine has evolved quite a lot since O'Rielly's version. The first apparatus resembling the current model was so heavy; it was often mounted to the ceiling with a spring so that the majority of the weight was taken off the tattooist's hand.
The version used today allows for much more precision in depth, saturation, everything. In fact, the art of tattoo application has become so precise that dermapigmentation, or applying permanent cosmetics to the delicate skin of the face and eyelids is possible and popular. The gun works on an alternating current system, similar to a sewing machine. The needle moves between 80 and 150 times per second, speeding up the process, cutting down on skin irritation and allowing the artist to work without moving very much so that his hand remains as steady as possible.
The needles are soldered into tubes in all different numbers and arrangements. The purpose in having a variety of configurations is the same as a more conventional artist having more than one paint brush. Each one produces a different effect. Some are for outlining, some are for shading to varying degrees and some create a solid fill. The general mechanics of a tattoo gun are fairly simply. In fact, some inventive person could put one together at home with parts of things you probably have lying around the house. There are several very good reasons you should never, ever do this, injury and disease to name just two, but since when has that stopped everybody?
* An ink pen
* Guitar string
* A tooth brush, or something similar (you'll see in a minute)
* The eraser from the top of a #2 pencil
* A small, battery operated motor, like what would be in a hand held cassette player
* Tape, or some sort of adhesive to hold it all together
* Some sewing needles
First you take four or five inches of guitar string and bend a little bit toward the end. Next, you remove the tube of ink from the pen. Cut it down to three or four inches long, then remove the brass ball at the end, making sure the opening created is large enough for a needle to pass through. Insert the needle into the tube. Then decapitate the toothbrush. Use a lighter, or some other flame to heat the plastic just until it's soft enough to bend, and then do so in an L shape.
Then, use your adhesive of choice to join the tube/needle combo to the long end of the L. Gently push the eraser onto the motor's shaft, getting it as centered as possible, then attach the motor to the short end of the L. Stick the bent end of the guitar string should be pushed (off center) into the eraser, and the other end should go through the tube and attached to the needle. The thinner the tube, the more control you will have over the gun. Now that you know how to manufacture a tattoo machine, DON'T!
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Milled from a soft 303 stainless steel metal for soft feel and sound the new Scotty Cameron California Sonoma Putter is a class act. Incorporating Scotty's classic design principles, with its compact wide bodied mallet style head shape, and utilizing the latest tour proven technological enhancements, the California Sonoma Putter offers golfers both exceptional touch and performance on the greens.
One of the main technological enhancements that helps to increase both the moment of inertia and sweet spot is the introduction of the new circular interchangeable weights that are screwed into the heel and toe ends of the putter head sole.
These weights not only reduce putter head rotation during contact with the ball for more stability, balance and forgiveness, but they can also give golfers more options by being able to change the weights so that they perfectly match players putting style preferences and putter shaft lengths, for optimal control and performance.
The Scotty Cameron California Sonoma Putter also allows you to change the lie angle by up to +/- 2 degrees from the standard 71 degree lie angle and features a drafted sole to keep the putter head square for proper alignment, along with a high toe setup to reduce the temptation of raising the toe end up at address, which leads to aiming left of target.
The spectacular golden honey dipped finish on the Scotty Cameron California Sonoma Putter helps to reduce the glare from the topline and simply looks amazing, along with its traditional plumbers neck hosel, single flange sight line to help with alignment and a clean looking stepless shaft with perfect offset.
Looking down at the California Sonoma Putter is pure joy and enough to put a smile on anyone's face. Complete with a Black Cameron Tour Grip for exceptional feel and touch, you will get one of Scotty's specially made putter head covers, along with your purchase.
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Have you bought your cricket bat and cannot wait to use it? It is advisable that you curb your temptation to take it out and have a crack without first seasoning it. Seasoning a bat is very important and essential if you want it to last. A bat is made out of pressed willow after compressing a very large piece of wood into a compact blade. Using it without preparation can cause the compressed wood to splinter and crack easily.
There are just a few things you will need to prepare your bat or the blade as it is commonly referred to. A little bottle of good quality linseed oil, a fiber plaster tape to protect your playing surface, a ball hammer or a bat mallet.
You must first oil the bat. This is to be done once a year and maybe twice a year in hot and humid countries. The purpose of oiling the blade is to keep the bat from drying and thus eventually cracking. While it is important to oil, it is also very important that you do not apply too much oil to a blade. Use your bare finger and dip it in linseed oil. Now finely coat the entire surface of the bat leaving out the just the areas covered by the stickers. Do not worry too much about getting a little oil on the stickers, it will not have any detrimental effect on the blade.
Once you have coated the blade with linseed oil, allow it to rest horizontally for 24 hours. It is very important that you do not rest it standing up as this will cause all the oil to seep downwards and ruin the bat.
Once you have oiled the blade, apply the fiber plaster tape on the playing surface to lock in the moisture. The fiber plaster will also protect the blade from deep seam marks. The next step is to season it. Bat manufacturers will usually give you guidelines on how to knock in a bat. In the absence of that, use a wooden mallet and slowly start to knock in the playing surface of the bat. It is best if you go as high up as the splice of the bat as there will be some contact there as well.
It is also important to season the edges. This is the most vulnerable part of the bat as a leading edge or outside edge at 80 miles per hour can easily crack it. To season the edges, strike the edges gently at a 45 degree handle. It is all right if you start to see the wood smudging a little bit. It is better that you do this rather than allow the ball to do it in a match for you.
You will know that you have knocked in your bat well when you hold up the bat at eye level and notice plenty of dents and an uneven surface of the blade. The next step is to have a few net sessions with an old ball before taking it out for a match.
If you really want to use a bat straight from the store, you should at least avoid the new ball as there is a 50% chance that you will break your brand new bat when facing a new ball.
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Snap ring pliers are another special case of a tool that is designed for a very specific job. This job is to put in or remove a steel ring from a groove on a shaft or other round device. Most folks do not have a set of these pliers in their tool kit, unless they have had that special need for them or they do work that requires they have a pair of the pliers available. The pliers cannot be used for much else, just put the ring in or take it out. It turns out, however, that this steel ring ring is performing a very important job, so its removal or addition to a piece of machinery is vital. The job of the snap is to hold some part of the machinery in place while the machine is in operation. Like for instance, a snap ring can hold a bearing on a shaft. You say how does the snap ring do that? Well the bearing is a circular object that has a track in it that goes all the way around the circumference of the bearing. In the track of this bearing are steel balls which are called ball bearings. These steel balls ride around the shaft in the groove and allow another object that might be attached to the shaft to rotate effectively because of the rotating ability of the ball bearings. If this bearing slipped off, the shaft the machinery would come to a grinding halt since the bearing and its ball bearings would not be available to allow the object to turn.
The snap ring is placed in a groove that is at the end of the shaft. This ring is made of very high tensile steel so that it will be able to retain its shape and stay in the groove where it resides. The ring protrudes above the top of the groove in which it resides. This protrusion will not allow the bearing to slide off the shaft, which would disable the machinery. There are both internal and external snap rings. The internal types are put inside the shaft or cylindrical object, while the external snap rings are put on the outside of the machinery part. The snap ring pliers that place these are designed to work with either external or internal rings. There are other pliers that can handle either internal or external rings. As you might expect there is a wide variety of these pliers, because there is a wide variety of snap ring types and places and ways they can be mounted or extracted. Most of the time the snap ring pliers are straight, but there are some that have 45 degree tips or 90 degree tips. The multifunctional types of these tools are usually more expensive than their single use counterparts. The snap rings can be shaped in various configurations, i.e., round, square, or rectangular, depending on the machine on which it is mounted and the object that must be retained.
If the ring has two holes in either end of it like the example pictured, the tool that is required to do this job will have a nose end that is set at 90 degrees. This will allow the pliers, once inserted into the holes of the ring, to compress the ring by squeezing the handles of the the tool. The snap ring can then either be placed into or removed from its groove. The location of the ring in relation to other parts of the machinery that are close by may have some bearing on the snap ring pliers that you can use to do this job. It might be difficult to get to the ends of the ring for its placement or removal. This will have some bearing on the tool that you might get to do the job. Sometimes you might have need of a set of these pliers to repair another tool that is broken or you may need them to work on the brakes on your car. There are snap ring pliers that have replaceable tips. These allow you to have this tool for more than one ring type when you need them. Whatever the repair, you will need to determine the type of ring that needs to be removed and its size to select the appropriate tool to do the job.
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The Rogue Trader early years:
The rule book written by Rick Priestley for the Warhammer 40000 game, Rogue Trader was published in 1987, this first issue is massively different to any of the future issues. It is mainly a cross between RPG's and classic Table Top Games, rather than a pure Table Top Battle Game. Rogue Trader had more in depth information and background on the wider reaches of the 40K universe, its races and their technologies, unlike later editions of the game, for me this is why it is considered a prized collectors' piece and holds a special place in my collection.
This Rulebook is considered much less rigid in the rules of 40K than later editions, as it employed a much broader set of views within the narration than was common in future versions and readily encouraged mixed faction forces.
Jokero, Slann, Squats, Zoats are examples of races that were not included in the first edition of RT.
Rogue Trader had six sections:
Rules of combat, Scenario for Crimson Fist Space Marines fighting Orks on Rynn's World, An Equipment section. Background Section Special rules for advanced gamers, A summary including all of the charts in the book.
A few elements of the setting (bolters, Dreadnought armour) can be seen in a set of wargaming rules called Laserburn written by Bryan Ansell and produced by Tabletop Games in 1980. The influence of these can also be seen in the prototype Necromunda game mechanics
My Interest in Rogue Trader
When I got onto Games Workshop products back in the late eighties it was the Rogue Trader miniatures that grabbed my attention. Rick Priestley really done a number on my life! When I first started modeling I used to build and paint my own lead models, typically British Red Coats, Prussians, and Napoleonic forces etc.
Then one day I bought a pack of Ral Partha fantasy figures and started veering down the Fantasy route but it wasn't until 1987 with the coming of Rogue Trader that I found something that would take up a lot of my time, effort and of course money and that was the good old Imperium of Man - (Rick Priestley wrote Rogue Traders as being freelance explorers employed by the Imperium to search for planets outside of the established borders) and all the ghastly creatures you had to fight. Though at first there was no sign of Chaos, well not like there exists today - sure Preistley hints about the forces of the warp (Chaos) but it wasn't until some expansions came out that we saw the full might of the Chaos forces come through.
The pride of my collection was a complete Imperial Space Marine army, lovingly built and painted over a number of years. Then again I also had a fantastic collection of Zoats, Space Slann, Imperial Guard, ah the list is endless really!
After a few years I had moved in with my wife to be and had our first son, the gaming all of a sudden became less and less of a thing, working and paying the bills seemed to take up every moment of my life (even when I was going through Uni I had managed to balance gaming with real life but having children really is a whole different ball game:)
So over the next decade my beloved collections got lost or broken as we bought our homes and moved around due to careers, and sadly I eventually stopped gaming!
Then skip forward to 2001 and a football injury saw me house ridden for 6 months and low and behold I started to buy 40K models from the local GW shop. In the years following that I began to really appreciate the workmanship of the Rouge Trader models (Today's models are definitely more sculptured/ornate and are really nice on the eye) I missed the simplicity of those early models - maybe in was with rosy eyes and bags of nostalgia that I remembered them but all of a sudden I wanted to regain my lost collections!
Boy!!! Was that easier said than done, since Games Workshop put all the RT stuff out of production and broke most of the molds I was finding it hard to find them BUT thankfully the web was really starting to hit it's potential and I could start finding clubs and websites where I could speak to other like minded people and of course EBAY:)) Now I know it has it's knockers and it's downsides but it was the number 1 stop for me to finding a lot of my lost minis BUT it was a nightmare of shill bidding, sniping, buyers pulling out of sales as the auction didn't hit what they wanted, figures being lost or broken in the post etc.
Alas there is now a multitude of places to find your old miniatures:)
The full Games Workshop Rogue Trader armies list and codes:
The codes where changed in the 1991 edition but I have listed the codes for the first releases.
Earliest Codes:
RTO1 - Space Marines (wd93)
RTO2 - Space Orks (wd93)
RTO3 - Space Dwarfs (wd94)
RTO4 - Space Elfs (wd94)
RTO5 - Imperial Army (wd96)
RTO6 - Marine Heavy Weapon (Multi-Melta)
RT7 - Mercenaries (wd95)
RT7 - Dreadnought Armour (wd95)
Space Marines
RTO1 - Space Marines (wd93)
RT101 - Imperial Space Marines (wd99)
RT101 - Imperial Space Marines (wd100)
RT103 - Marine Heavy Weapons (wd102)
RT105 - Imperial Commander (wd98)
RT106 - Vincent Black Shadow (wd99)
RT106 - Medic on Bike (wd102)
RT107 - Rhino Crew Marines (wd103)
RT108 - Imperial Robots (wd104)
4106 - Space Marine Chaplains (wd108)
Space Orks
RTO2 - Space Orks
RT202 - Ork Command Group (wd97)
RT204 - Ork Dreadnought (wd99)
RT205 - Ork Battle Buggy (wd98)
RT206 - Ork Dreadnought Expansion (wd99)
RT207 - Ork Heavy Weapons (wd100)
RT - Space Orks (wd106)
Space Dwarfs
RTO3 - Space Dwarfs (wd94)
RT302 - Space Dwarf Command (wd97)
RT303 - Space Dwarf Heavy Weapons (wd97)
RT304 - Squat Thudd Gun (wd101)
RT305 - Squat Bikes (wd103)
Space Elfs
RTO4 - Space Elfs (wd94)
RT401 - Space Elfs (BotA)
RT402 - Space Elf Command (wd99)
RT403 - Eldar Dreadnought (wd100)
RT403 - Eldar War Robot (wd101)
RT403 - Eldar War Walker (wd102)
RT404 - Eldar D-Cannon (wd99)
RT404 - Eldar Artillery (wd103)
4306 - Eldar Jet Bike (wd106)
4306 - Harlequin Jet Bike (wd107)
4306 - Harlequins (wd107)
Imperial Army
RTO5 - Imperial Army (wd96)
RT501 - Imperial Army 1 (wd98)
RT501 - Imperial Army 2 (wd98)
RT502 - Imperial Heavy Weapons (wd102)
RT502 - Mercenaries (wd95)
RT503 - Imperial Landspeeder (wd101)
RT505 - Imperial Rapier (wd100)
RT509 - Guards on Motorbikes
4010 - Imperial Guard Commisars (wd109)
4010 - Imperial Guard (wd109)
Miscellaneous
RT601 - Adventurers (wd99)
RT601 - Pirates (wd103)
RT602 - Ambull (wd99)
RT701 - Medics
IC301 - Iron Claw Space Pirates (wd99)
IC501 - Iron Claw Squats (wd100)
IC2003 - Jump Troopers
Boxed sets:
RTB01 - Space Marines
RTB02 - Space Ork Raiders
RTB03 - Devastators
RTB04 - Rhinos
RTB05 - Land Raiders
RTB06 - Harlequins
RTB07 - Imperial Guard (Plastic Kit)
RTB08 - Predator (Plastic Vehicle Kit)
RTB09 - Terminators
RTB10 - Space Dwarfs (Plastic Kit)
RTB11 - Land Raider (Single Kit)
RTB12 - Rhino (Single Kit)
RTB13 - Space Orks (Plastic Kit)
RTB14 - Ork Battlewagon(Kit)
RTB15 - Space Marine Strike Force
RTB16 - Terminators & Tyranids
TSF (Blisters)
TSF16 - Jet Cycle
TSF18 - Space Slann
TSF18 - Space Zoats
Imperial Ogyrn Hero
Ogryns (and Ogres)
Limited Edition Rogue Trader
Grav Attack Vehicle
RTLE - Christmas Marines
SFD Giant Robots
LE1 - Space Orc
LE2 - Imperial Space Marine
LE6 - Space Santa
LE9 - Space Skeleton
LE10 - Power Armoured Marine
LE22 - Orc Bazookas
LE101 - Chaos Renegade Marine
LE102 - Traitor Legionnaire
Space Crusade Dreadnoughts
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Why do I have Toe Pain?
There are many reasons why you might have toe pain and it is important to find the cause is so you can get on your path to fixing or controlling the problem. This article outlines some of the most common causes and potential treatments.
Common Causes of Toe Pain
The most common area of arthritis in the foot is at the joint of the big toe. Arthritis causes inflammation of the cartilage and lining of the body joints causing redness, warmth, pain and swelling. The big toe is necessary to push off every step you take, so if this joint begins to stiffen, pain can make walking a challenge.
Gout is a form of arthritis that is known to cause severe toe pain. With gout, excess uric acid crystals gather around the joints at the big toe. It can become so painful even laying a blanket over your toe hurts it. Gout is a disease known to exist in men much more than in women.
Toe pain may be experienced as a result of a toe deformity. Conditions such as hammertoe, claw toe and mallet toes cause the toes to curl or bend in abnormal positions. Different toe joints may be affected by these conditions and the pain can be debilitating.
An ingrown toenail can also be a cause of toe pain. This occurs when the toenail grows into the flesh of the toe and often occurs in the big toe. Ingrown toenails are caused by: hereditary factors, improper nail cutting, poorly fitting shoes, curved toenails or trauma to the toe. Part of the pain is often caused by infection in the toe due to this condition.
Hallux rigidus is a name for an immovable big toe. Hallux limitus occurs if the motion is restricted, but some movement is still available. The ends of the bones are covered by articular cartilage and continuous wear or injury can damage this cartilage and allow the bones to rub together. This allows bone spurs or growths to develop and doesn't allow the toe to bend. The result of this stress on the joint can cause pain at the toe, and also cause bunions or calluses to develop. It affects the way you walk by altering the biomechanics, which can cause foot, ankle, knee, hip, or even lower back pain as well.
Metatarsalgia is another condition that can cause pain in the toes, usually in the form of numbness and tingling. It occurs when the nerves in the feet at the level of the metatarsal heads get irritated or compressed. Toe pain due to metatarsalgia is most often treated using foot orthotics for ball of foot pain.
All of these problems have potential to alter mechanics of the gait cycle enough to cause problems further up the chain to the feet, ankles, knees, hips or back.
What Can I Do to Reduce Toe Pain?
Applying ice to swollen areas and taking anti-inflammatory medications may relieve some of the pain. However, these are only temporary relief strategies. Make sure you choose an appropriate shoe with a large toe box to help reduce pressure on the toes. Certain shoe types, such as those with a stiff sole or with a rocker bottom may help with certain kinds of toe problems.
Your doctor may also send you to a pedorthist or podiatrist for arch supports or foot orthotics to wear in your shoes if the pain in your toe is due to your foot alignment. If none of these conservative methods provide relief and your pain is affecting your daily activity, surgery may be required as a last resort. Foot orthotics to control movement after surgery are usually recommended to help prevent the return of toe pain if part of the cause was due to biomechanical and alignment issues.
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If you do a lot of hardware-related work, then it is essential to choose a good power drill. Although you can find models for as cheap as 20 dollars, they probably will not last through the week if you use it regularly. Cheap versions are made from weak plastic/metal components and can easily snap, turning it into a potential safety hazard. Conversely, you could purchase the best power drill for 500-1000 dollars that you will be able to keep for years afterwards. Although the product is initially expensive, it will more than repay your money in terms of quality.
Chucks
Chuck drills are available in several varieties, depending on how much you want to pay for it. The cheapest designs use metal chucks that need a key to close or open them. Although this style used to be very common, using a chuck key became a problem when trying to tighten the drill bit. Keyless chucks are much more common in modern versions, but they tend to cost more. Be very careful when purchasing a cheap chuck, because they can often lose their grip if they have not been twisted tightly enough.
General Use Power Drill
A standard drill can be used for just about any task. Although it does not perform as well compared to specialized drills, it will save you from having to purchase multiple drills. The performance of this drill is determined by its motor size, which can be measured by its electrical watt consumption. The more electricity your tool uses, the more powerful it is. A 400-watt drill is not very powerful, so it cannot be used for difficult tasks such as drilling through stonewalls.
Instead of using electricity, some general-use drills get their power from compressed air. These drills are much quieter and cheaper to run, but are not as powerful as an electric drill. Air drills are usually used for vehicles or engineering since they are not capable of masonry work.
Hammer Drill
The hammer drill is one of the strongest and most powerful drills. It can either come with a keyed or keyless chuck and can be tuned at variable speeds. Many of them have reverse gear capability, which can be very helpful if a drill bit is stuck. There are many different types of hammer drills such as percussion hammers, pneumatic hammers and rotary hammers. Many hardware experts say that pneumatic hammers are the best type, but the other ones work quite well too. A good hammer drill can also be used for just about any task except for drilling large holes through concrete.
SDS Drill
This type of drill can be used for just about anything. An SDS drill may be as light as 1 kilo, or it could weight well over 10 kilos. The best power drill models have a rotary feature, allowing them to be used for concrete and demolition work. If you are going to do heavy duty drilling jobs, then this is definitely the product for you. Cheap models can be found for as low as 50 dollars, but you will only get minimal power.
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A great portion of a knight's life was devoted to the mastery of a variety of weapons. Here is a look at some of the more common weapons that were wielded throughout the Middle Ages.
Knights had a reign that lasted several hundred years and in this time period the weapons they used varied and changed significantly. Some of the factors that caused this change were improvements in metalworking and improvements in weapon design. Armor also improved over this period of time and it mandated improvements in weapons. One of the most significant changes came with the advent of plated armor. This new type of armor caused changes in many of the knight's standard weapons. Slicing and bladed weapons were often accentuated or replaced by weapons that could pierce or apply a hammer-like blow. This development of hand weapons continued to change for centuries and reached its apex in the fourteenth and fifteenth century with the advent of gunpowder. This articles looks at some of the more common weapons from this time period.
Before gunpowder rendered them obsolete there were basically two different types of weapons that knights used: single-handed, and polearm (two-handed). Of the single-handed weapons the sword is of course the most popular and best known. And it was the beneficiary of technology improvements. Over the centuries they got longer, sharper, lighter, and stronger. They were central part of a knight's armory and even as hand weapons became obsolete swords remained part of a knights arsenal as a symbol of power and chivalry.
Another common one-handed weapon of knights was the mace, which was a short handled striking weapon with a ball on the far end. The ball often had spikes or flanges on it, which would penetrate a foes armor. The flail was another standard weapon and it was short handled with a length of chain then a ball or flail head. This ball on a chain, when swung could generate enormous force, and just as importantly, it could be used to swing up and over an enemy's shield. The warhammer was another common weapon and it was a direct modification of the blacksmith's hammer. It was a very common weapon particularly in the early centuries of medieval warfare and was very similar to today's modern claw hammer having one end that was flat and used for striking, and the other end having a piercing beak that could penetrate armor.
Polearms were long handled weapons that knights often used in combat -particularly when mounted on horses. They ranged in length from six feet to as much as twelve or sixteen feet. The basic advantage of a polearm was its reach from atop a horse. It could be used to attack an enemy before he could get close enough to use his own weapon. They came in many variations and the most common type of polearm is the lance, which is still used today in jousting competitions. The lance was also a capable, and feared, weapon used for breaking up the foot ranks of enemy formations. Other types of polearms were often variations of hand-held weapons mounted on the end of a long pole. And two good examples of this are the poleaxe and the halberd, which were forms of axes, often with a hammer, or axe blade along one side and a point at the very tip for penetrating armor.
While there were many weapons that knights used there also were a few weapons that they refused to use for various reasons. Knighthood came with a complete code of conduct and a rule of chivalry and these had an effect on the weapons they could use. The three most popular weapons that they didn't use were the bow, the crossbow, and the dagger. The bow and crossbow were considered to be unknightly because you did not face your foe when fighting. And the dagger was considered to be a dishonorable weapon because it was used stealthily and hidden; although, the dagger did start to become a sometimes-used weapon toward the end of the middle ages but it predominantly for ceremonial purposes only.
The use of weapons by knights over the course of the Middle Ages changed and evolved significantly based on many factors such as blacksmithing skills, engineering skills, improvements in armor, improvement in combat techniques, and even the code of chivalry. While many variations of weapons came and went there were only about a dozen trusted weapons that had proven their worth through centuries of use on the battlefield.
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In the golf swing the ground is used as a leverage point to produce the rotational power that leads to long, straight shots. Leverage from the ground is transmitted through the legs and hips up to the pelvic region. The pelvic region is the base of your athletic core and is the source of all athletic power.
Three Points For Generating Maximum Core Power
Your core cannot generate maximum power if it is not in optimal positions. The first requirement for great power is that your muscles hold your organs tightly so that power can flow through your body. Second, you must focus on training the muscles that rotate the torso from side to side. Third, you have to train the muscles that move the ribs towards and away from the pelvis. The only way you can generate your full power is if all of these muscles are strong enough to transfer the power developed from the point of leverage where the feet contact the ground, through the pelvis and up through the upper body.
It is important for your internal organs to be supported because if your soft organs are lose and moving around, then you lose a lot of power. Imagine if you were to hit a rubber hose that was loosely filled with metal BB's. If you were to take a hammer and hit the top of the hose then the hose would bow and squish, telling you that there was extremely poor power transfer. However, pack those BB's as tight as possible into the hose, making it as firm as possible, and much more of the energy from the hammer is transferred. The same principle hold true with your pelvis and organs.
How To Properly Activate Your Core Muscles For Maximum Power
In order to properly activate the deep abdominal/core muscles responsible for power, first properly center yourself on your feet. Next, imagine trying to put on the tightest pair of pants you have ever seen. In order to get them on, you have to suck in your stomach quite a bit. The idea is to try and bring your spine and stomach together by drawing your belly button in and up as far as possible and holding that position.
This is basically what you should do before and during every single exercise you perform, as it will greatly increase the overall effectiveness of the exercise, both from an athletic and general functional fitness standpoint. It is also a movement that you can do anytime, from sitting in your office to watching tv. It is a very easy but extremely effective exercise that you should do as often as possible.
Increase Exercise Difficulty And Effectiveness Significantly
This will probably be extremely difficult at first for you, but you will eventually adapt. An example of this technique in practice would be during the Medicine Ball Torso Twist exercise. During this exercise you hold a medicine ball in front of you and rotate the ball from one side of your body to another. If you were to just swing the medicine ball without activating your core (drawing in your stomach) it is an extremely easy movement that will most likely not challenge you very much.
By drawing in your abs you significantly increase both the difficulty and effectiveness of this exercise. The key is to maintain the tight torso throughout the entire movement. When training for greater golf power high quality is much more effective than loads of reps.
It is important to note that crunch boards, sit-up contraptions and most common abdominal training routines do absolutely nothing for increasing golf power or trimming your waistline. Don't waste your time at the gym doing sit ups, crunches and leg lifts. By doing the right ab exercises you can develop both greater athletic/golf power and a trimmer waistline in significantly less time.
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The Odyssey White Hot XG golf putters product line is only one of several lines offered by the Odyssey company, but it is extensive in itself with 18 different models to choose from. These break down into two groups, the Core Models which account for 11 different putter types, and the Progressive Models, which consist of 7 types of putters with more modern shapes and design features.
All of the Odyssey White Hot XG putters are based on an advanced putter face insert technology which is designed to give a softer feel. The company states that the design was inspired by newer multi-layer golf balls which also are softer. Two different materials are used in the putter face to achieve this effect. First there is what is called an Elastometer core material which gives the putter its softer feel. On top of this is a thin outer striking surface which is a harder material. The impact zone is textured and supposedly this provides added feel, and the textured zone also surrounds and indicates the correct impact area, or sweet spot. In addition to this mixed-material insert technology, the Odyssey White Hot XG line of putters was designed to get the CG (center of gravity) of the clubs low and to the back of the club head. Accomplishing this also increases the MOI of the club which will provide some level of forgiveness if putts are not struck squarely on the sweet spot.
Odyssey White Hot XG Core Models
The Core Models all use the technologies described above and are putters based on classic designs. That is, they are all variations of traditional blade or mallet putters. They are simply named Odyssey White Hot XG no. 1, no. 2, etc. up through no. 9. The no. 5 putter has a "CS" version, which means it is the same as the regular no. 5 but with a center shaft configuration. There is also a White Hot XG Rossi model. The Rossi model and the No. 1, no. 3, and no. 9 putters come in left-handed versions. In fact the no. 9 putter was used by lefty Phil Michelson to win the 2007 Players Championship. As mentioned, these clubs are takeoffs of traditional blade or mallet putters, but they come in different styles, with different amount of offsets, different shaft placements and other features. The most radical looking is putter no. 7, which is called a modified mallet putter with weighted wings in the back to help alignment of putts. All these putters come with an MSRP of 9 and can be purchased through a vast network of dealers or directly from the Odyssey web site. Pictures of each putter can be found on the Odyssey web site as well.
Odyssey White Hot XG Progressive Models
The Odyssey Progressive line of putters uses more modern designs, especially with regard to putt alignment aids, as in the 2 Ball putters, and with more modern putter head weight redistribution techniques.
There are two versions of the White Hot XG Marxman putters. One is more of a mallet configuration, while the other is based on a blade design. The main visual features are the long alignment stripes. The putters essentially look like two ball putters, but they have long parallel stripes rather than additional golf balls to help line up the putt. Aligning putts properly is a huge problem for most golfers, and most of us have a tendency to be misaligned, leaving the chances of making putts up to subconscious corrections or perhaps just luck. Both of the Marxman putters have in-line weighting and full shaft offset, and both retail for 9.
The remaining five putters in the Progressive line are 2 Ball putters, and these have become popular with PGA Tour pros. As is the case with the Marxman models, there are 2 Ball putters based on both mallet and blade designs. These clubs both have full shaft offset, and the mallet model comes in a left-handed version. There is also a mallet-type model with a center shaft and no offset. All three of these putters retail for 9.
The newest putters in the White Hot XG lineup use a design called "Saturn Ring Technology". Basically a semi-circular ring of metal is added to the rear of the club head. This approach will clearly redistribute weight and improve the MOI of the club. This means that even if the putt is not struck exactly on the sweet spot, the club will not twist as much and will thus provide forgiveness on off-center putts. There is a standard length and long-shafted version of this design available. Both putters have a half-shaft offset and both retail for 9.
Since most recreational golfers are notorious for hitting putts off-center and for having poor alignment, the Progressive Models of the Odyssey White Hot XG golf putters product line would seem to offer solutions that might help players hole more putts, lower scores, and have more fun playing the game.
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There is more to softball hitting than just natural ability. With the right training and equipment, any player can develop the skills she needs to bat successfully. Use these tips as a guide through the different factors affecting players' batting, and learn how each player can become a top hitter.
Proper Positioning
No matter what the age level of a softball team, it is always important to go over proper positioning when approaching the plate. Players who are reminded of optional hitting technique will be more successful at the plate and be less likely to become injured.
Grip - Hitters should hold the bat with the base of their fingers, not their palms. Keep the knuckles almost in line with each other. Players should remember to drop their pinky finger below the knob on the bat. This will provide them with more leverage and increase their bat speed. Stance - Start with weight on the back foot, and then shift the balance of weight to the front foot during the swing. This will generate more power behind the swing. Start with the bat making contact with the right shoulder (if batting right-handed). The swing should end with the bat on the left shoulder. This stance and follow-through will allow for proper batting mechanics and keep the head low throughout the swing. Swing - Use both hands to lead the swing, so that the bat is the last thing through the strike zone. Contact should be made with the ball slightly in front of the body, because this is where the most speed is generated. Aim for the bottom half of the ball so that it will be carried further by the hit.
Train the Muscles - And the Eyes
The stronger the batters' arms are, the more powerful the hit. These training exercises will increase arm strength for a faster and more effective swing:
The Hammer - For this training exercise, the player holds out the bat in a vertical position with the arm extended. The batter then lowers the bat in a hammering motion, working the muscles in the forearms and wrists. The player can adjust her choke on the bat if it is too heavy or light, and should alternate hands (and then use both hands) for 10-20 repetitions. Windshield Wiper - For this training exercise, the player again holds the bat in a vertical position with the arms extended. This time, the hitter moves the bat from left to right, like a windshield wiper, instead of up and down, like a hammer. This exercise strengthens wrists and improves torque. Again, alternate hands for 10-20 repetitions.
Players should train their eyes by first watching the pitcher as a whole. Then, as she starts the pitch, shift the focus to her arm and hand. Finally, zero in on the ball. This shift from a wide to narrow focus will improve ability to judge pitches.
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To provide an informed comparison of free weights and selectorized machines it is first necessary to have an explicit understanding of their purpose - both what it is and how it is best accomplished. The reason for the numerous misconceptions that exist surrounding the subject is that the majority of people claiming expertise and making authoritative statements on the issue lack this understanding, as well as understanding of related concepts such as motor learning and skill transfer, and basic mechanical physics.
It is important to note that there are currently over fifty companies manufacturing a wide variety of selectorized machines, and the overwhelming majority of these are incorrectly designed. This article is only concerned with properly designed machines.
The purpose of performing an exercise is to fatigue or inroad the strength levels of the involved muscular structures to a meaningful degree to stimulate a growth mechanism. Ideally, this should occur within some minimum time frame to avoid using any more of the body's limited metabolic resources than necessary, since those same resources are required for recovery and growth. There are a variety of factors which affect how efficiently an exercise accomplishes this. Some of these include how well the resistance is balanced to the users strength in different positions over the range of motion, whether the targeted musculature is loaded directly, and how well the exercise facilitates focus and concentration on the targeted musculature.
Variable Resistance
A person's usable strength changes from position to position during any movement due to the effects of friction, myofibril congestion, virtual cam effects resulting from the changes in tendon insertion angles and other factors, as well as changes in leverage resulting from the changing angles of the involved bones during multi-joint movements. If we graph these changes in usable strength over the full range of motion of any particular exercise, we have what is referred to as the strength curve for that exercise.
The resistance provided by free weights or machines can also vary over the range of motion of an exercise due to changes in leverage or torque. This change in resistance over the range of motion is what is referred to as the resistance curve for that exercise.
Ideally, this resistance should vary in proportion to the strength curve of the involved muscular structures, increasing in positions where they are stronger and decreasing in positions where they are weaker. This makes it possible to meaningfully load the muscles continuously throughout the exercise and achieve the desired level of inroad with little or no energy wasted. The less wasted during exercise, the more available to the body afterwards for recovery and growth.
In free weight exercises involving rotation around a single joint such as barbell curls, dumbbell lateral raises, and dumbbell chest flies, the resistance curve resulting from the change in torque over the range of motion matches a portion of a sinusoidal curve (see figure A below). This does not match the strength curve for most rotary movements, however, which require an exponential decrease in resistance towards the end of the range of motion (see figure B below). While some free weight exercises can be performed in a manner in which the resulting resistance curve more closely approximates the strength curve of the involved muscles, perfect congruence is difficult, if not impossible to accomplish.
Figure A - The resistance curve resulting from the strict performance of a barbell curl.
If the resistance provided by an exercise does not vary in proportion to the strength curve the amount of weight that can be used is limited to how much one is capable of handling in the position where the resistance is greatest. This is commonly known as the sticking point in free weight exercises. As a result, the involved muscular structures are only meaningfully loaded over a small portion of the range of motion of the exercise. During the rest of the exercise the relatively lower resistance allows the muscles a respite during which some motor units may recover more than if the muscles encountered meaningful resistance over the full range of motion. This reduces the rate of inroad resulting in less efficient growth stimulation.
In a properly designed machine a cam or system of levers varies the resistance over the full range of motion in proportion to the strength curve of the involved muscles, increasing it in positions where the muscles are stronger and decreasing it in positions where they are weaker. This provides continuously meaningful loading during the exercise, and inroads the muscles strength levels more efficiently. Less of the body's limited resources are wasted in the process of stimulating the muscles to grow, leaving more for recovery and growth.
The ideal resistance curve for nearly all single joint exercises as well as compound pulling exercises such as the bent-over barbell row, which require an exponential resistance decrease, can only be provided by a properly designed machine. In compound pushing movements, however, such as the squat and various presses, the relatively flat resistance curve provided by the near vertical movement of a barbell will provide a relatively balanced variation in resistance. Assuming that proper turnaround technique is used and lockout is avoided, these will load the muscles relatively efficiently.
Figure B - Comparison of arm flexion strength curve with the resistance curve of a strict barbell curl. Most compound pushing movements require a relatively flat resistance curve. Most compound pulling and rotary movements require an exponential resistance decrease over the last half of the movement.
Direct Resistance
In many barbell exercises the amount of resistance that can be used is limited by the strength of weaker intermediary structures, preventing the targeted muscular structures from being loaded as meaningfully as possible. In a properly designed machine, the resistance can be applied directly to the target muscles without going through a weak link, which allows them to be inroaded more efficiently.
A good example of this is the barbell squat. Although the barbell squat is a highly productive exercise it is not as effective as a properly designed leg press for targeting the musculature of the hips and thighs since it requires those muscles to be loaded through the weaker musculature of the low back. As a result the amount of weight one can handle in a barbell squat is limited by the strength of the lower back.
A properly designed leg press loads the muscles through the hips, so the weight that can be used is only limited by the strength of the hip and thigh muscles. While the barbell squat provides a greater amount of stimulation to the body as a whole due to the involvement of a larger amount of muscle, a leg press machine will provide greater growth stimulation for the musculature of the hips and thighs.
The muscles of the chest, back and shoulders can only be indirectly loaded through the weak links of the arm and grip muscles when using free weights. Direct resistance for these muscle groups is only possible with machines.
Balance
There is a common misconception that the need to balance a barbell, dumbbells or the body during free weight exercises requires greater muscular effort and provides more effective growth stimulation or growth stimulation to more of the body. This is not true, however, since very little muscular effort is required to balance something.
To balance an object is to keep it in a state of equilibrium, a state of rest produced by the mutual counteraction of two or more forces. For example, during a barbell bench press, the mutual counteraction of the the latissimus and deltoids prevents flexion or extension of the shoulder outside of a very narrow range, maintaining balance of the barbell over the shoulder joint throughout the movement. Since the load is being balanced upon the end of an effective lever which is almost perfectly vertical, even if the balancing force is being applied very close to the fulcrum (a mechanical disadvantage) the resistance or torque encountered at that point would be minimal.
The need for balance during free weight exercises is actually a disadvantage, since the skill of balancing an object or the body requires a certain amount of focus which detracts from one's ability to concentrate on contraction. By tracking muscle and joint function and eliminating the need to balance the resistance a machine allows for better concentration, and more intense contraction of the target musculature. Since there is no need to worry about losing one's balance or dropping a barbell or dumbbells, training to failure on a machine is also safer.
A related misconception is that the balance skills developed during the practice of free weight exercises transfer to other vocational or athletic activities. This is also not true. There is no positive transfer of balance skills from one activity to another. One can not improve their balance or any other skill in another activity by training with free weights. If you wish to improve your balance in the performance of a specific activity, the only way to do so is to practice that exact activity. To attempt to mimic an athletic or vocational activity while under load is neither an efficient way to exercise nor an effective means of improving skill in those activities.
Stabilization
Another common misconception is that it is necessary to perform free weight exercises in order to target certain stabilizer muscles. Realize that the term stabilizer is context dependent and refers to any muscle which acts to fix the position of one part of the body while other parts move. A muscle which acts as a stabilizer during one exercise acts as a prime mover or synergist during another. Although some muscles may be noticeably loaded while acting as stabilizers during certain exercises, such as those of the lower back during a bent-over barbell row, it is far more effective to target those muscles directly with exercises in which they are the prime mover. The involvement of a muscle as a stabilizer during either a free weight or machine exercise does not provide it with meaningful growth stimulation.
Conclusion
The proper use of free weights can produce an incredible degree of improvement in muscular strength and size, but the same results can be achieved more safely and efficiently with the use of properly designed machines. Therefore the current popular bias against machines has no rational basis. Regardless of the tools used, results are ultimately more dependent upon the method of training.
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Some track and field companies have been supplying top quality athletic equipments and goods to teams, leagues, clubs, individuals and corporate customers from more than a decade from their location. Their products are of top grade and suitable for all levels of athletic competition, training and game day needs.
Track and field is a sport event which consists of many events. Every track and field event falls under two categories: track or field. Track events are hurdles and running. Running events are called sprints or dashes. 100 meter running is the shortest race and is the most popular event in all track and field events. 200 and 400 meter dash are the other two popular track and field events. The other two popular short events are hurdles event in which the runner must leap over evenly spaced hurdles throughout the run. Men compete in 110 meter high hurdles or 400 meter, while women compete in 100 m hurdle race.
Within field events in track and field, there are two major categories: throwing and jumping. The 4 major throwing events are discus, shot put, hammer and javelin. Discus and javelin are used for long throws as they use a disc and long spear. Shot put is a heavy ball and the hammer is a heavy ball at the end of a chain, so both events involve shorter throws. The four important jumping events in track and field include long jump, triple jump, high jump and pole vault.
Athletic supplier companies supply all types of track and field equipments like Hammer, Hurdles, Starting blocks, kettlebells, weight benches and bars, shot put, Discus throw etc. Different types of discus equipments that they sell are Prestige Discus, target discus, training discus, Amazer, Premium and rubber discs.
Shot put is track and field athletic equipment which the athlete throws or puts a metal weight called a shot. The shot is referred as shot put. This athletic event is performed inside a 7 foot circle with a four inch tall toe board at the front edge. Shot put is made up of brass or any heavier metal, though brass and iron are most common. Shot put is a game which was included in the first modern Olympic Games in 1896 and has been an event in every summer Olympic Games since then.
Starting blocks track and field equipments are used by athletes at the start of sprinting events. In the race, runners are assigned lanes in the running track. To make the runner stay within the lane heavy, solid blocks known as starting blocks are provided. This device is used by professionals and advanced runners. If new runners use this device it can create a bad form or injure their underdeveloped leg muscles.
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Would you rather hear what you need to learn from someone who is already an accomplished golfer? Would a few hours with Jack Nicholas REALLY help your game? "Just do what I do, it's easy!" Or would you rather learn from a beginner, who understands the struggles, the small improvements and remembers those early changes that lead to greater success?
It almost makes sense, doesn't it? The best coaches are often mediocre players, and the worst coaches were stars, who had everything come easy to them. Natural ability is hard to teach to others! As a beginning golfer, I have noticed some dramatic improvements, though, and wanted to pass them along to other beginning golfers.
First, the drive. To many of us starting out, it seems to be all-important. I have had instructors tell me that if you can hit the ball 150 yards, that you can work your way down any length of hole in about 3 shots, chip on and putt in, and play bogie golf without ever hitting a John Daly type 300 yard plus drive. As beginners, all we see is the big drives, the pressure, people watching us tee off, and understandably we want to be able to pound the ball!
What I've learned is that you can cut back on the swing to almost a half swing, hockey slapshot type thing, and increase the accuracy, with a small reduction in distance, until you are more comfortable with the swing. Also, a friend helped me with the description of coming "inside-out" with the swing. While that sounds complicated, imagine holding your back hand (I'm a left handed golfer) tight to your body and swinging through the ball and outwards after contact - straightened out my ball flight and increased distance.
Lessons seemed to boil down to getting into the same position, and swinging smoothly and evenly making sure the club is flat at contact - try swinging at the driving range - not to hammer the ball, but try swinging with virtually NO effort, then 20% 40% 60% etc. Get comfortable with a straight line of whatever distance, and KNOW how far each club will take you. If you need 100 yards, say, it doesn't matter if you get that with a pitching wedge or a 5-wood, as long as you can get it accurately there!
Pitching (from under 100 yards) and putting are the majority of the strokes, the easiest area to improve your game, and if you've ever played with a senior, they can be outdriven from the tee, but play so solidly from there onwards, with straight, accurate shots - you can't beat them!
Makes you rethink the wisdom of working on that booming drive, huh? The majority of time should be spent practicing the 100 yard and shorter shots - which inadvertently improves the overall stroke and technique, and makes the drives better over time!
Practice shooting 10, 20, 30 etc yards, and have the short chip down pat. Then work on putting - NOT trying to sink the putt, just to get the ball to within a club length of the hole - from ANYWHERE on the green. When you have mastered the ability to get the ball close like that, then work on the short 2 footers - almost from the start you'll find that you can get the majority in.
THAT's the secret - the drive doesn't matter, the next shot is OK, but the one that gets the ball TO the green is crucial! Then if you can putt to withing a very close area of the pin, and make THOSE easy putts - you're a bogie golfer - TA DAAA!
Wait, there's one more thing - the mental part of golf. If you have a certain ability, how come you see flashes fo greatness on some days, and flashes of needing to break your clubs on others? Same guy, same equipment, different results? THAT is the mental part of golf - and it becomes more and moe important as you master the basic strokes and techniques.
At the beginning stages of golf, you are thrown off by worrying about what others think - it feels like people are watching your drive, partners are evaluating your game, people are seeing if you can play golf well, etc. The answer to this is that everyone started off as a beginner, and VERY few people can play below 90s golf. Basically, we all suck! Take the pressure off of yourself for the first 20-50 games, and you will have the routine ingrained, the swing will be solid, all will work fairly well - under pressure or not.
Relaxation, and realizing that golf is a game against YOURSELF, are the keys. You can't play a real tournament against another golfer until you shoot in the 70s - so don't let that enter your head - try playing alone - you can - very early or very late - or with total strangers as a walk on.
Over time, you WILL get better - visibly, noticeably. Try playing a few days in a row, or a series of days either playing golf or practicing. Practice makes perfect - especially the short game that is ignored by the majority pounding shots into the darkness at driving ranges - work on the touch, the feel, the magic ability to get 25%, 50% or 75% shots, to control the distance.
Most of all, relax and enjoy the walk, the scenery, remember the things that went WELL - and move on from the ones that were duffed, hooked into the trees, or when you putted back and forth across the green like a madman - they all happen - to ALL of us - even Tiger Woods (every now and then). The trick is to concentrate on making the NEXT shot, the NEXT hole, the NEXT practice or game - be your very best. There's no going back and reshooting that shot that went into the water! Forget about it and calmly, confidently move on.
Your best games, your best shots will occur when you have a calm, confident feeling, feeling that you are just repeating what you've practiced, and easily accomplished in the past. Look at the grin on Tiger's face as he sinks a putt and pumps his fist - this game can be FUN!!
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Changing C.V. (Constant Velocity) axles today is almost as common as doing brake jobs. But some CV axles can be pretty stubborn to remove. In this article learn some of the tricks I've used over the years as a Master Tech to make changing CVs and 1/2 shafts easier. Automotive specialty tools are sometimes needed to make the job easier, I'll discuss some of those and if it is better to replace the entire half shaft, the joint or just the CV boot.
Clicking On Turns
Since you're reading this you may already know that a common sign of a bad CV joint is popping and clicking on turns. A shudder on straight take offs could be a worn inner joint, but this is much less common. Outer joints have the most movement (like on turns), that's why outer boots usually wear more than the inner ones. CV boots are designed to pump grease throughout the joint during movement. Wear that causes outer joints to make noise can be accelerated if the CV boot breaks from dry rot or wear and the lubricating grease is lost. If the CV boot breaks, grease is thrown out of the joint by centrifugal force while driving. Without grease to keep the joint lubricated and cooler, its life is drastically reduced. Also outside elements like moisture and dirt can enter the joint, further reducing its life expectancy. Once they wear, they make a clicking noise upon turns while accelerating. If they are noisy, the 1/2 shaft assembly may be the easiest way to go instead of replacing just the joint. CV 1/2 shaft prices have came down in the last decade and are more readily available than they used to be.
Removing the Half Shaft Assembly
The job of removing half shafts on most cars is mostly the same.
Remove the big nut that holds the joint to the wheel hub.
It may be necessary to unbolt or un-clip the brake hose to prevent stretching it when removing the axle.
The steering knuckle (where the brake rotor mounts), must either be loosened at the strut mount or at the lower ball joint to allow the shaft to slip out of the hub. Choose the easiest!
The inner CV will either be held into the transmission by bolts or with a retaining clip (the clip is not visible).
If there are no bolts on the inner joint, in most cases it will need to be pried out with a pry bar.
Alternatively a slide hammer with a C.V. joint puller can be used to remove the inner joint from the transmission.
Inspecting and Replacing Boots
You may be able to detect and replace worn boots before damage is done to the C.V. joint. If the boot has dry rot and is about to crack or has just recently split . And the CV joint doesn't make any noises yet, it has been caught it in time. The CV half shaft assembly can be removed and just the boot can be replaced with new grease of course. The CV boot kit also comes with two clamps and special grease. It is less expensive to re-boot a joint, but it is a little more labor intensive. On cars that I was familiar with, many times I changed the CV boot without taking the shaft completely out of the car. Usually though, the shaft is removed and placed in a vise to be worked on. The old boot is cut away to help reveal what type of retaining clip is holding the joint onto the 1/2 shaft.
When a cleaner is used, like brake clean and the joint is angled it's easier to see the clip. The joint may need to be turned while kept on an angle to see the clip. Most either require lock ring pliers to spread the lock ring or the joint can be struck sharply with a hammer (care must be taken not to damage the cage). If you have doubt on what type of retainer you are working with, consult a service manual for your specific model. Be aware that the ball bearings can fall out when the joint is off the shaft and the cage is turned sideways depending on the type it is. After cleaning and drying with compressed air, the grease bag can be cut on the corner and the grease is squeezed into the center of the joint. It's common to force out some of the old grease that was trapped while doing this. Scoop up and discard the old grease that may ooze out. Put the boot and joint back on the shaft by spreading the clip or tapping lightly with a brass hammer. Special CV joint boot clamp tools will be needed to tighten the bands properly. There are two basic types of clamps. There is a type that will be crimped with boot clamp pliers. The other type requires a banding tool, this type is wound and cranked tight using the same motion as you would with a can opener.
A common mistake is damaging the output seal in the transmission when removing or re-installing the axle. If the seal is damaged, transmission fluid will leak. Be careful to center the inner joint when putting it back in. Also a mistake that is made even by professionals is to either break the cir-clip that holds the axle in the transmission or to not install the axle completely IN. It is normal to feel a little movement in and out when pushing and pulling the inner joint when it is properly installed. If the retaining clip is broken or not fully inserted, the shaft can slip out enough that the car will not move! Also if tapping the shaft back into the transmission, be careful not to damage the outer threads. Remember if this is your first axle job, don't hesitate to have a buddy with experience on call!
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