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Every profession has tools of the trade, and the tattoo industry is no exception. All the ink, flash, stencils and needles in the world would be worthless without the tattoo gun. Your tattooist will definitely know what you're talking about when you used the word "gun", but it's a generally thought of as an amateur term. Professionals usually just say "machine" or use the term "iron".
The first tattoo machines where based on something Thomas Edison (that's right, that Thomas Edison) invented in the year 1876 called the Autograph Engraver. The device was originally meant to be an engraving machine. The design was improved upon some years later by a man named Samuel O'Rielly who came up with and needle and rod system and ink reservoir. The modern day machine has evolved quite a lot since O'Rielly's version. The first apparatus resembling the current model was so heavy; it was often mounted to the ceiling with a spring so that the majority of the weight was taken off the tattooist's hand.
The version used today allows for much more precision in depth, saturation, everything. In fact, the art of tattoo application has become so precise that dermapigmentation, or applying permanent cosmetics to the delicate skin of the face and eyelids is possible and popular. The gun works on an alternating current system, similar to a sewing machine. The needle moves between 80 and 150 times per second, speeding up the process, cutting down on skin irritation and allowing the artist to work without moving very much so that his hand remains as steady as possible.
The needles are soldered into tubes in all different numbers and arrangements. The purpose in having a variety of configurations is the same as a more conventional artist having more than one paint brush. Each one produces a different effect. Some are for outlining, some are for shading to varying degrees and some create a solid fill. The general mechanics of a tattoo gun are fairly simply. In fact, some inventive person could put one together at home with parts of things you probably have lying around the house. There are several very good reasons you should never, ever do this, injury and disease to name just two, but since when has that stopped everybody?
* An ink pen
* Guitar string
* A tooth brush, or something similar (you'll see in a minute)
* The eraser from the top of a #2 pencil
* A small, battery operated motor, like what would be in a hand held cassette player
* Tape, or some sort of adhesive to hold it all together
* Some sewing needles
First you take four or five inches of guitar string and bend a little bit toward the end. Next, you remove the tube of ink from the pen. Cut it down to three or four inches long, then remove the brass ball at the end, making sure the opening created is large enough for a needle to pass through. Insert the needle into the tube. Then decapitate the toothbrush. Use a lighter, or some other flame to heat the plastic just until it's soft enough to bend, and then do so in an L shape.
Then, use your adhesive of choice to join the tube/needle combo to the long end of the L. Gently push the eraser onto the motor's shaft, getting it as centered as possible, then attach the motor to the short end of the L. Stick the bent end of the guitar string should be pushed (off center) into the eraser, and the other end should go through the tube and attached to the needle. The thinner the tube, the more control you will have over the gun. Now that you know how to manufacture a tattoo machine, DON'T!
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Milled from a soft 303 stainless steel metal for soft feel and sound the new Scotty Cameron California Sonoma Putter is a class act. Incorporating Scotty's classic design principles, with its compact wide bodied mallet style head shape, and utilizing the latest tour proven technological enhancements, the California Sonoma Putter offers golfers both exceptional touch and performance on the greens.
One of the main technological enhancements that helps to increase both the moment of inertia and sweet spot is the introduction of the new circular interchangeable weights that are screwed into the heel and toe ends of the putter head sole.
These weights not only reduce putter head rotation during contact with the ball for more stability, balance and forgiveness, but they can also give golfers more options by being able to change the weights so that they perfectly match players putting style preferences and putter shaft lengths, for optimal control and performance.
The Scotty Cameron California Sonoma Putter also allows you to change the lie angle by up to +/- 2 degrees from the standard 71 degree lie angle and features a drafted sole to keep the putter head square for proper alignment, along with a high toe setup to reduce the temptation of raising the toe end up at address, which leads to aiming left of target.
The spectacular golden honey dipped finish on the Scotty Cameron California Sonoma Putter helps to reduce the glare from the topline and simply looks amazing, along with its traditional plumbers neck hosel, single flange sight line to help with alignment and a clean looking stepless shaft with perfect offset.
Looking down at the California Sonoma Putter is pure joy and enough to put a smile on anyone's face. Complete with a Black Cameron Tour Grip for exceptional feel and touch, you will get one of Scotty's specially made putter head covers, along with your purchase.
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Have you bought your cricket bat and cannot wait to use it? It is advisable that you curb your temptation to take it out and have a crack without first seasoning it. Seasoning a bat is very important and essential if you want it to last. A bat is made out of pressed willow after compressing a very large piece of wood into a compact blade. Using it without preparation can cause the compressed wood to splinter and crack easily.
There are just a few things you will need to prepare your bat or the blade as it is commonly referred to. A little bottle of good quality linseed oil, a fiber plaster tape to protect your playing surface, a ball hammer or a bat mallet.
You must first oil the bat. This is to be done once a year and maybe twice a year in hot and humid countries. The purpose of oiling the blade is to keep the bat from drying and thus eventually cracking. While it is important to oil, it is also very important that you do not apply too much oil to a blade. Use your bare finger and dip it in linseed oil. Now finely coat the entire surface of the bat leaving out the just the areas covered by the stickers. Do not worry too much about getting a little oil on the stickers, it will not have any detrimental effect on the blade.
Once you have coated the blade with linseed oil, allow it to rest horizontally for 24 hours. It is very important that you do not rest it standing up as this will cause all the oil to seep downwards and ruin the bat.
Once you have oiled the blade, apply the fiber plaster tape on the playing surface to lock in the moisture. The fiber plaster will also protect the blade from deep seam marks. The next step is to season it. Bat manufacturers will usually give you guidelines on how to knock in a bat. In the absence of that, use a wooden mallet and slowly start to knock in the playing surface of the bat. It is best if you go as high up as the splice of the bat as there will be some contact there as well.
It is also important to season the edges. This is the most vulnerable part of the bat as a leading edge or outside edge at 80 miles per hour can easily crack it. To season the edges, strike the edges gently at a 45 degree handle. It is all right if you start to see the wood smudging a little bit. It is better that you do this rather than allow the ball to do it in a match for you.
You will know that you have knocked in your bat well when you hold up the bat at eye level and notice plenty of dents and an uneven surface of the blade. The next step is to have a few net sessions with an old ball before taking it out for a match.
If you really want to use a bat straight from the store, you should at least avoid the new ball as there is a 50% chance that you will break your brand new bat when facing a new ball.
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Snap ring pliers are another special case of a tool that is designed for a very specific job. This job is to put in or remove a steel ring from a groove on a shaft or other round device. Most folks do not have a set of these pliers in their tool kit, unless they have had that special need for them or they do work that requires they have a pair of the pliers available. The pliers cannot be used for much else, just put the ring in or take it out. It turns out, however, that this steel ring ring is performing a very important job, so its removal or addition to a piece of machinery is vital. The job of the snap is to hold some part of the machinery in place while the machine is in operation. Like for instance, a snap ring can hold a bearing on a shaft. You say how does the snap ring do that? Well the bearing is a circular object that has a track in it that goes all the way around the circumference of the bearing. In the track of this bearing are steel balls which are called ball bearings. These steel balls ride around the shaft in the groove and allow another object that might be attached to the shaft to rotate effectively because of the rotating ability of the ball bearings. If this bearing slipped off, the shaft the machinery would come to a grinding halt since the bearing and its ball bearings would not be available to allow the object to turn.
The snap ring is placed in a groove that is at the end of the shaft. This ring is made of very high tensile steel so that it will be able to retain its shape and stay in the groove where it resides. The ring protrudes above the top of the groove in which it resides. This protrusion will not allow the bearing to slide off the shaft, which would disable the machinery. There are both internal and external snap rings. The internal types are put inside the shaft or cylindrical object, while the external snap rings are put on the outside of the machinery part. The snap ring pliers that place these are designed to work with either external or internal rings. There are other pliers that can handle either internal or external rings. As you might expect there is a wide variety of these pliers, because there is a wide variety of snap ring types and places and ways they can be mounted or extracted. Most of the time the snap ring pliers are straight, but there are some that have 45 degree tips or 90 degree tips. The multifunctional types of these tools are usually more expensive than their single use counterparts. The snap rings can be shaped in various configurations, i.e., round, square, or rectangular, depending on the machine on which it is mounted and the object that must be retained.
If the ring has two holes in either end of it like the example pictured, the tool that is required to do this job will have a nose end that is set at 90 degrees. This will allow the pliers, once inserted into the holes of the ring, to compress the ring by squeezing the handles of the the tool. The snap ring can then either be placed into or removed from its groove. The location of the ring in relation to other parts of the machinery that are close by may have some bearing on the snap ring pliers that you can use to do this job. It might be difficult to get to the ends of the ring for its placement or removal. This will have some bearing on the tool that you might get to do the job. Sometimes you might have need of a set of these pliers to repair another tool that is broken or you may need them to work on the brakes on your car. There are snap ring pliers that have replaceable tips. These allow you to have this tool for more than one ring type when you need them. Whatever the repair, you will need to determine the type of ring that needs to be removed and its size to select the appropriate tool to do the job.
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The Rogue Trader early years:
The rule book written by Rick Priestley for the Warhammer 40000 game, Rogue Trader was published in 1987, this first issue is massively different to any of the future issues. It is mainly a cross between RPG's and classic Table Top Games, rather than a pure Table Top Battle Game. Rogue Trader had more in depth information and background on the wider reaches of the 40K universe, its races and their technologies, unlike later editions of the game, for me this is why it is considered a prized collectors' piece and holds a special place in my collection.
This Rulebook is considered much less rigid in the rules of 40K than later editions, as it employed a much broader set of views within the narration than was common in future versions and readily encouraged mixed faction forces.
Jokero, Slann, Squats, Zoats are examples of races that were not included in the first edition of RT.
Rogue Trader had six sections:
Rules of combat, Scenario for Crimson Fist Space Marines fighting Orks on Rynn's World, An Equipment section. Background Section Special rules for advanced gamers, A summary including all of the charts in the book.
A few elements of the setting (bolters, Dreadnought armour) can be seen in a set of wargaming rules called Laserburn written by Bryan Ansell and produced by Tabletop Games in 1980. The influence of these can also be seen in the prototype Necromunda game mechanics
My Interest in Rogue Trader
When I got onto Games Workshop products back in the late eighties it was the Rogue Trader miniatures that grabbed my attention. Rick Priestley really done a number on my life! When I first started modeling I used to build and paint my own lead models, typically British Red Coats, Prussians, and Napoleonic forces etc.
Then one day I bought a pack of Ral Partha fantasy figures and started veering down the Fantasy route but it wasn't until 1987 with the coming of Rogue Trader that I found something that would take up a lot of my time, effort and of course money and that was the good old Imperium of Man - (Rick Priestley wrote Rogue Traders as being freelance explorers employed by the Imperium to search for planets outside of the established borders) and all the ghastly creatures you had to fight. Though at first there was no sign of Chaos, well not like there exists today - sure Preistley hints about the forces of the warp (Chaos) but it wasn't until some expansions came out that we saw the full might of the Chaos forces come through.
The pride of my collection was a complete Imperial Space Marine army, lovingly built and painted over a number of years. Then again I also had a fantastic collection of Zoats, Space Slann, Imperial Guard, ah the list is endless really!
After a few years I had moved in with my wife to be and had our first son, the gaming all of a sudden became less and less of a thing, working and paying the bills seemed to take up every moment of my life (even when I was going through Uni I had managed to balance gaming with real life but having children really is a whole different ball game:)
So over the next decade my beloved collections got lost or broken as we bought our homes and moved around due to careers, and sadly I eventually stopped gaming!
Then skip forward to 2001 and a football injury saw me house ridden for 6 months and low and behold I started to buy 40K models from the local GW shop. In the years following that I began to really appreciate the workmanship of the Rouge Trader models (Today's models are definitely more sculptured/ornate and are really nice on the eye) I missed the simplicity of those early models - maybe in was with rosy eyes and bags of nostalgia that I remembered them but all of a sudden I wanted to regain my lost collections!
Boy!!! Was that easier said than done, since Games Workshop put all the RT stuff out of production and broke most of the molds I was finding it hard to find them BUT thankfully the web was really starting to hit it's potential and I could start finding clubs and websites where I could speak to other like minded people and of course EBAY:)) Now I know it has it's knockers and it's downsides but it was the number 1 stop for me to finding a lot of my lost minis BUT it was a nightmare of shill bidding, sniping, buyers pulling out of sales as the auction didn't hit what they wanted, figures being lost or broken in the post etc.
Alas there is now a multitude of places to find your old miniatures:)
The full Games Workshop Rogue Trader armies list and codes:
The codes where changed in the 1991 edition but I have listed the codes for the first releases.
Earliest Codes:
RTO1 - Space Marines (wd93)
RTO2 - Space Orks (wd93)
RTO3 - Space Dwarfs (wd94)
RTO4 - Space Elfs (wd94)
RTO5 - Imperial Army (wd96)
RTO6 - Marine Heavy Weapon (Multi-Melta)
RT7 - Mercenaries (wd95)
RT7 - Dreadnought Armour (wd95)
Space Marines
RTO1 - Space Marines (wd93)
RT101 - Imperial Space Marines (wd99)
RT101 - Imperial Space Marines (wd100)
RT103 - Marine Heavy Weapons (wd102)
RT105 - Imperial Commander (wd98)
RT106 - Vincent Black Shadow (wd99)
RT106 - Medic on Bike (wd102)
RT107 - Rhino Crew Marines (wd103)
RT108 - Imperial Robots (wd104)
4106 - Space Marine Chaplains (wd108)
Space Orks
RTO2 - Space Orks
RT202 - Ork Command Group (wd97)
RT204 - Ork Dreadnought (wd99)
RT205 - Ork Battle Buggy (wd98)
RT206 - Ork Dreadnought Expansion (wd99)
RT207 - Ork Heavy Weapons (wd100)
RT - Space Orks (wd106)
Space Dwarfs
RTO3 - Space Dwarfs (wd94)
RT302 - Space Dwarf Command (wd97)
RT303 - Space Dwarf Heavy Weapons (wd97)
RT304 - Squat Thudd Gun (wd101)
RT305 - Squat Bikes (wd103)
Space Elfs
RTO4 - Space Elfs (wd94)
RT401 - Space Elfs (BotA)
RT402 - Space Elf Command (wd99)
RT403 - Eldar Dreadnought (wd100)
RT403 - Eldar War Robot (wd101)
RT403 - Eldar War Walker (wd102)
RT404 - Eldar D-Cannon (wd99)
RT404 - Eldar Artillery (wd103)
4306 - Eldar Jet Bike (wd106)
4306 - Harlequin Jet Bike (wd107)
4306 - Harlequins (wd107)
Imperial Army
RTO5 - Imperial Army (wd96)
RT501 - Imperial Army 1 (wd98)
RT501 - Imperial Army 2 (wd98)
RT502 - Imperial Heavy Weapons (wd102)
RT502 - Mercenaries (wd95)
RT503 - Imperial Landspeeder (wd101)
RT505 - Imperial Rapier (wd100)
RT509 - Guards on Motorbikes
4010 - Imperial Guard Commisars (wd109)
4010 - Imperial Guard (wd109)
Miscellaneous
RT601 - Adventurers (wd99)
RT601 - Pirates (wd103)
RT602 - Ambull (wd99)
RT701 - Medics
IC301 - Iron Claw Space Pirates (wd99)
IC501 - Iron Claw Squats (wd100)
IC2003 - Jump Troopers
Boxed sets:
RTB01 - Space Marines
RTB02 - Space Ork Raiders
RTB03 - Devastators
RTB04 - Rhinos
RTB05 - Land Raiders
RTB06 - Harlequins
RTB07 - Imperial Guard (Plastic Kit)
RTB08 - Predator (Plastic Vehicle Kit)
RTB09 - Terminators
RTB10 - Space Dwarfs (Plastic Kit)
RTB11 - Land Raider (Single Kit)
RTB12 - Rhino (Single Kit)
RTB13 - Space Orks (Plastic Kit)
RTB14 - Ork Battlewagon(Kit)
RTB15 - Space Marine Strike Force
RTB16 - Terminators & Tyranids
TSF (Blisters)
TSF16 - Jet Cycle
TSF18 - Space Slann
TSF18 - Space Zoats
Imperial Ogyrn Hero
Ogryns (and Ogres)
Limited Edition Rogue Trader
Grav Attack Vehicle
RTLE - Christmas Marines
SFD Giant Robots
LE1 - Space Orc
LE2 - Imperial Space Marine
LE6 - Space Santa
LE9 - Space Skeleton
LE10 - Power Armoured Marine
LE22 - Orc Bazookas
LE101 - Chaos Renegade Marine
LE102 - Traitor Legionnaire
Space Crusade Dreadnoughts
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Why do I have Toe Pain?
There are many reasons why you might have toe pain and it is important to find the cause is so you can get on your path to fixing or controlling the problem. This article outlines some of the most common causes and potential treatments.
Common Causes of Toe Pain
The most common area of arthritis in the foot is at the joint of the big toe. Arthritis causes inflammation of the cartilage and lining of the body joints causing redness, warmth, pain and swelling. The big toe is necessary to push off every step you take, so if this joint begins to stiffen, pain can make walking a challenge.
Gout is a form of arthritis that is known to cause severe toe pain. With gout, excess uric acid crystals gather around the joints at the big toe. It can become so painful even laying a blanket over your toe hurts it. Gout is a disease known to exist in men much more than in women.
Toe pain may be experienced as a result of a toe deformity. Conditions such as hammertoe, claw toe and mallet toes cause the toes to curl or bend in abnormal positions. Different toe joints may be affected by these conditions and the pain can be debilitating.
An ingrown toenail can also be a cause of toe pain. This occurs when the toenail grows into the flesh of the toe and often occurs in the big toe. Ingrown toenails are caused by: hereditary factors, improper nail cutting, poorly fitting shoes, curved toenails or trauma to the toe. Part of the pain is often caused by infection in the toe due to this condition.
Hallux rigidus is a name for an immovable big toe. Hallux limitus occurs if the motion is restricted, but some movement is still available. The ends of the bones are covered by articular cartilage and continuous wear or injury can damage this cartilage and allow the bones to rub together. This allows bone spurs or growths to develop and doesn't allow the toe to bend. The result of this stress on the joint can cause pain at the toe, and also cause bunions or calluses to develop. It affects the way you walk by altering the biomechanics, which can cause foot, ankle, knee, hip, or even lower back pain as well.
Metatarsalgia is another condition that can cause pain in the toes, usually in the form of numbness and tingling. It occurs when the nerves in the feet at the level of the metatarsal heads get irritated or compressed. Toe pain due to metatarsalgia is most often treated using foot orthotics for ball of foot pain.
All of these problems have potential to alter mechanics of the gait cycle enough to cause problems further up the chain to the feet, ankles, knees, hips or back.
What Can I Do to Reduce Toe Pain?
Applying ice to swollen areas and taking anti-inflammatory medications may relieve some of the pain. However, these are only temporary relief strategies. Make sure you choose an appropriate shoe with a large toe box to help reduce pressure on the toes. Certain shoe types, such as those with a stiff sole or with a rocker bottom may help with certain kinds of toe problems.
Your doctor may also send you to a pedorthist or podiatrist for arch supports or foot orthotics to wear in your shoes if the pain in your toe is due to your foot alignment. If none of these conservative methods provide relief and your pain is affecting your daily activity, surgery may be required as a last resort. Foot orthotics to control movement after surgery are usually recommended to help prevent the return of toe pain if part of the cause was due to biomechanical and alignment issues.
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If you do a lot of hardware-related work, then it is essential to choose a good power drill. Although you can find models for as cheap as 20 dollars, they probably will not last through the week if you use it regularly. Cheap versions are made from weak plastic/metal components and can easily snap, turning it into a potential safety hazard. Conversely, you could purchase the best power drill for 500-1000 dollars that you will be able to keep for years afterwards. Although the product is initially expensive, it will more than repay your money in terms of quality.
Chucks
Chuck drills are available in several varieties, depending on how much you want to pay for it. The cheapest designs use metal chucks that need a key to close or open them. Although this style used to be very common, using a chuck key became a problem when trying to tighten the drill bit. Keyless chucks are much more common in modern versions, but they tend to cost more. Be very careful when purchasing a cheap chuck, because they can often lose their grip if they have not been twisted tightly enough.
General Use Power Drill
A standard drill can be used for just about any task. Although it does not perform as well compared to specialized drills, it will save you from having to purchase multiple drills. The performance of this drill is determined by its motor size, which can be measured by its electrical watt consumption. The more electricity your tool uses, the more powerful it is. A 400-watt drill is not very powerful, so it cannot be used for difficult tasks such as drilling through stonewalls.
Instead of using electricity, some general-use drills get their power from compressed air. These drills are much quieter and cheaper to run, but are not as powerful as an electric drill. Air drills are usually used for vehicles or engineering since they are not capable of masonry work.
Hammer Drill
The hammer drill is one of the strongest and most powerful drills. It can either come with a keyed or keyless chuck and can be tuned at variable speeds. Many of them have reverse gear capability, which can be very helpful if a drill bit is stuck. There are many different types of hammer drills such as percussion hammers, pneumatic hammers and rotary hammers. Many hardware experts say that pneumatic hammers are the best type, but the other ones work quite well too. A good hammer drill can also be used for just about any task except for drilling large holes through concrete.
SDS Drill
This type of drill can be used for just about anything. An SDS drill may be as light as 1 kilo, or it could weight well over 10 kilos. The best power drill models have a rotary feature, allowing them to be used for concrete and demolition work. If you are going to do heavy duty drilling jobs, then this is definitely the product for you. Cheap models can be found for as low as 50 dollars, but you will only get minimal power.
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A great portion of a knight's life was devoted to the mastery of a variety of weapons. Here is a look at some of the more common weapons that were wielded throughout the Middle Ages.
Knights had a reign that lasted several hundred years and in this time period the weapons they used varied and changed significantly. Some of the factors that caused this change were improvements in metalworking and improvements in weapon design. Armor also improved over this period of time and it mandated improvements in weapons. One of the most significant changes came with the advent of plated armor. This new type of armor caused changes in many of the knight's standard weapons. Slicing and bladed weapons were often accentuated or replaced by weapons that could pierce or apply a hammer-like blow. This development of hand weapons continued to change for centuries and reached its apex in the fourteenth and fifteenth century with the advent of gunpowder. This articles looks at some of the more common weapons from this time period.
Before gunpowder rendered them obsolete there were basically two different types of weapons that knights used: single-handed, and polearm (two-handed). Of the single-handed weapons the sword is of course the most popular and best known. And it was the beneficiary of technology improvements. Over the centuries they got longer, sharper, lighter, and stronger. They were central part of a knight's armory and even as hand weapons became obsolete swords remained part of a knights arsenal as a symbol of power and chivalry.
Another common one-handed weapon of knights was the mace, which was a short handled striking weapon with a ball on the far end. The ball often had spikes or flanges on it, which would penetrate a foes armor. The flail was another standard weapon and it was short handled with a length of chain then a ball or flail head. This ball on a chain, when swung could generate enormous force, and just as importantly, it could be used to swing up and over an enemy's shield. The warhammer was another common weapon and it was a direct modification of the blacksmith's hammer. It was a very common weapon particularly in the early centuries of medieval warfare and was very similar to today's modern claw hammer having one end that was flat and used for striking, and the other end having a piercing beak that could penetrate armor.
Polearms were long handled weapons that knights often used in combat -particularly when mounted on horses. They ranged in length from six feet to as much as twelve or sixteen feet. The basic advantage of a polearm was its reach from atop a horse. It could be used to attack an enemy before he could get close enough to use his own weapon. They came in many variations and the most common type of polearm is the lance, which is still used today in jousting competitions. The lance was also a capable, and feared, weapon used for breaking up the foot ranks of enemy formations. Other types of polearms were often variations of hand-held weapons mounted on the end of a long pole. And two good examples of this are the poleaxe and the halberd, which were forms of axes, often with a hammer, or axe blade along one side and a point at the very tip for penetrating armor.
While there were many weapons that knights used there also were a few weapons that they refused to use for various reasons. Knighthood came with a complete code of conduct and a rule of chivalry and these had an effect on the weapons they could use. The three most popular weapons that they didn't use were the bow, the crossbow, and the dagger. The bow and crossbow were considered to be unknightly because you did not face your foe when fighting. And the dagger was considered to be a dishonorable weapon because it was used stealthily and hidden; although, the dagger did start to become a sometimes-used weapon toward the end of the middle ages but it predominantly for ceremonial purposes only.
The use of weapons by knights over the course of the Middle Ages changed and evolved significantly based on many factors such as blacksmithing skills, engineering skills, improvements in armor, improvement in combat techniques, and even the code of chivalry. While many variations of weapons came and went there were only about a dozen trusted weapons that had proven their worth through centuries of use on the battlefield.
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In the golf swing the ground is used as a leverage point to produce the rotational power that leads to long, straight shots. Leverage from the ground is transmitted through the legs and hips up to the pelvic region. The pelvic region is the base of your athletic core and is the source of all athletic power.
Three Points For Generating Maximum Core Power
Your core cannot generate maximum power if it is not in optimal positions. The first requirement for great power is that your muscles hold your organs tightly so that power can flow through your body. Second, you must focus on training the muscles that rotate the torso from side to side. Third, you have to train the muscles that move the ribs towards and away from the pelvis. The only way you can generate your full power is if all of these muscles are strong enough to transfer the power developed from the point of leverage where the feet contact the ground, through the pelvis and up through the upper body.
It is important for your internal organs to be supported because if your soft organs are lose and moving around, then you lose a lot of power. Imagine if you were to hit a rubber hose that was loosely filled with metal BB's. If you were to take a hammer and hit the top of the hose then the hose would bow and squish, telling you that there was extremely poor power transfer. However, pack those BB's as tight as possible into the hose, making it as firm as possible, and much more of the energy from the hammer is transferred. The same principle hold true with your pelvis and organs.
How To Properly Activate Your Core Muscles For Maximum Power
In order to properly activate the deep abdominal/core muscles responsible for power, first properly center yourself on your feet. Next, imagine trying to put on the tightest pair of pants you have ever seen. In order to get them on, you have to suck in your stomach quite a bit. The idea is to try and bring your spine and stomach together by drawing your belly button in and up as far as possible and holding that position.
This is basically what you should do before and during every single exercise you perform, as it will greatly increase the overall effectiveness of the exercise, both from an athletic and general functional fitness standpoint. It is also a movement that you can do anytime, from sitting in your office to watching tv. It is a very easy but extremely effective exercise that you should do as often as possible.
Increase Exercise Difficulty And Effectiveness Significantly
This will probably be extremely difficult at first for you, but you will eventually adapt. An example of this technique in practice would be during the Medicine Ball Torso Twist exercise. During this exercise you hold a medicine ball in front of you and rotate the ball from one side of your body to another. If you were to just swing the medicine ball without activating your core (drawing in your stomach) it is an extremely easy movement that will most likely not challenge you very much.
By drawing in your abs you significantly increase both the difficulty and effectiveness of this exercise. The key is to maintain the tight torso throughout the entire movement. When training for greater golf power high quality is much more effective than loads of reps.
It is important to note that crunch boards, sit-up contraptions and most common abdominal training routines do absolutely nothing for increasing golf power or trimming your waistline. Don't waste your time at the gym doing sit ups, crunches and leg lifts. By doing the right ab exercises you can develop both greater athletic/golf power and a trimmer waistline in significantly less time.
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The Odyssey White Hot XG golf putters product line is only one of several lines offered by the Odyssey company, but it is extensive in itself with 18 different models to choose from. These break down into two groups, the Core Models which account for 11 different putter types, and the Progressive Models, which consist of 7 types of putters with more modern shapes and design features.
All of the Odyssey White Hot XG putters are based on an advanced putter face insert technology which is designed to give a softer feel. The company states that the design was inspired by newer multi-layer golf balls which also are softer. Two different materials are used in the putter face to achieve this effect. First there is what is called an Elastometer core material which gives the putter its softer feel. On top of this is a thin outer striking surface which is a harder material. The impact zone is textured and supposedly this provides added feel, and the textured zone also surrounds and indicates the correct impact area, or sweet spot. In addition to this mixed-material insert technology, the Odyssey White Hot XG line of putters was designed to get the CG (center of gravity) of the clubs low and to the back of the club head. Accomplishing this also increases the MOI of the club which will provide some level of forgiveness if putts are not struck squarely on the sweet spot.
Odyssey White Hot XG Core Models
The Core Models all use the technologies described above and are putters based on classic designs. That is, they are all variations of traditional blade or mallet putters. They are simply named Odyssey White Hot XG no. 1, no. 2, etc. up through no. 9. The no. 5 putter has a "CS" version, which means it is the same as the regular no. 5 but with a center shaft configuration. There is also a White Hot XG Rossi model. The Rossi model and the No. 1, no. 3, and no. 9 putters come in left-handed versions. In fact the no. 9 putter was used by lefty Phil Michelson to win the 2007 Players Championship. As mentioned, these clubs are takeoffs of traditional blade or mallet putters, but they come in different styles, with different amount of offsets, different shaft placements and other features. The most radical looking is putter no. 7, which is called a modified mallet putter with weighted wings in the back to help alignment of putts. All these putters come with an MSRP of 9 and can be purchased through a vast network of dealers or directly from the Odyssey web site. Pictures of each putter can be found on the Odyssey web site as well.
Odyssey White Hot XG Progressive Models
The Odyssey Progressive line of putters uses more modern designs, especially with regard to putt alignment aids, as in the 2 Ball putters, and with more modern putter head weight redistribution techniques.
There are two versions of the White Hot XG Marxman putters. One is more of a mallet configuration, while the other is based on a blade design. The main visual features are the long alignment stripes. The putters essentially look like two ball putters, but they have long parallel stripes rather than additional golf balls to help line up the putt. Aligning putts properly is a huge problem for most golfers, and most of us have a tendency to be misaligned, leaving the chances of making putts up to subconscious corrections or perhaps just luck. Both of the Marxman putters have in-line weighting and full shaft offset, and both retail for 9.
The remaining five putters in the Progressive line are 2 Ball putters, and these have become popular with PGA Tour pros. As is the case with the Marxman models, there are 2 Ball putters based on both mallet and blade designs. These clubs both have full shaft offset, and the mallet model comes in a left-handed version. There is also a mallet-type model with a center shaft and no offset. All three of these putters retail for 9.
The newest putters in the White Hot XG lineup use a design called "Saturn Ring Technology". Basically a semi-circular ring of metal is added to the rear of the club head. This approach will clearly redistribute weight and improve the MOI of the club. This means that even if the putt is not struck exactly on the sweet spot, the club will not twist as much and will thus provide forgiveness on off-center putts. There is a standard length and long-shafted version of this design available. Both putters have a half-shaft offset and both retail for 9.
Since most recreational golfers are notorious for hitting putts off-center and for having poor alignment, the Progressive Models of the Odyssey White Hot XG golf putters product line would seem to offer solutions that might help players hole more putts, lower scores, and have more fun playing the game.
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