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Every profession has tools of the trade, and the tattoo industry is no exception. All the ink, flash, stencils and needles in the world would be worthless without the tattoo gun. Your tattooist will definitely know what you're talking about when you used the word "gun", but it's a generally thought of as an amateur term. Professionals usually just say "machine" or use the term "iron".
The first tattoo machines where based on something Thomas Edison (that's right, that Thomas Edison) invented in the year 1876 called the Autograph Engraver. The device was originally meant to be an engraving machine. The design was improved upon some years later by a man named Samuel O'Rielly who came up with and needle and rod system and ink reservoir. The modern day machine has evolved quite a lot since O'Rielly's version. The first apparatus resembling the current model was so heavy; it was often mounted to the ceiling with a spring so that the majority of the weight was taken off the tattooist's hand.
The version used today allows for much more precision in depth, saturation, everything. In fact, the art of tattoo application has become so precise that dermapigmentation, or applying permanent cosmetics to the delicate skin of the face and eyelids is possible and popular. The gun works on an alternating current system, similar to a sewing machine. The needle moves between 80 and 150 times per second, speeding up the process, cutting down on skin irritation and allowing the artist to work without moving very much so that his hand remains as steady as possible.
The needles are soldered into tubes in all different numbers and arrangements. The purpose in having a variety of configurations is the same as a more conventional artist having more than one paint brush. Each one produces a different effect. Some are for outlining, some are for shading to varying degrees and some create a solid fill. The general mechanics of a tattoo gun are fairly simply. In fact, some inventive person could put one together at home with parts of things you probably have lying around the house. There are several very good reasons you should never, ever do this, injury and disease to name just two, but since when has that stopped everybody?
* An ink pen
* Guitar string
* A tooth brush, or something similar (you'll see in a minute)
* The eraser from the top of a #2 pencil
* A small, battery operated motor, like what would be in a hand held cassette player
* Tape, or some sort of adhesive to hold it all together
* Some sewing needles
First you take four or five inches of guitar string and bend a little bit toward the end. Next, you remove the tube of ink from the pen. Cut it down to three or four inches long, then remove the brass ball at the end, making sure the opening created is large enough for a needle to pass through. Insert the needle into the tube. Then decapitate the toothbrush. Use a lighter, or some other flame to heat the plastic just until it's soft enough to bend, and then do so in an L shape.
Then, use your adhesive of choice to join the tube/needle combo to the long end of the L. Gently push the eraser onto the motor's shaft, getting it as centered as possible, then attach the motor to the short end of the L. Stick the bent end of the guitar string should be pushed (off center) into the eraser, and the other end should go through the tube and attached to the needle. The thinner the tube, the more control you will have over the gun. Now that you know how to manufacture a tattoo machine, DON'T!
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Milled from a soft 303 stainless steel metal for soft feel and sound the new Scotty Cameron California Sonoma Putter is a class act. Incorporating Scotty's classic design principles, with its compact wide bodied mallet style head shape, and utilizing the latest tour proven technological enhancements, the California Sonoma Putter offers golfers both exceptional touch and performance on the greens.
One of the main technological enhancements that helps to increase both the moment of inertia and sweet spot is the introduction of the new circular interchangeable weights that are screwed into the heel and toe ends of the putter head sole.
These weights not only reduce putter head rotation during contact with the ball for more stability, balance and forgiveness, but they can also give golfers more options by being able to change the weights so that they perfectly match players putting style preferences and putter shaft lengths, for optimal control and performance.
The Scotty Cameron California Sonoma Putter also allows you to change the lie angle by up to +/- 2 degrees from the standard 71 degree lie angle and features a drafted sole to keep the putter head square for proper alignment, along with a high toe setup to reduce the temptation of raising the toe end up at address, which leads to aiming left of target.
The spectacular golden honey dipped finish on the Scotty Cameron California Sonoma Putter helps to reduce the glare from the topline and simply looks amazing, along with its traditional plumbers neck hosel, single flange sight line to help with alignment and a clean looking stepless shaft with perfect offset.
Looking down at the California Sonoma Putter is pure joy and enough to put a smile on anyone's face. Complete with a Black Cameron Tour Grip for exceptional feel and touch, you will get one of Scotty's specially made putter head covers, along with your purchase.
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Have you bought your cricket bat and cannot wait to use it? It is advisable that you curb your temptation to take it out and have a crack without first seasoning it. Seasoning a bat is very important and essential if you want it to last. A bat is made out of pressed willow after compressing a very large piece of wood into a compact blade. Using it without preparation can cause the compressed wood to splinter and crack easily.
There are just a few things you will need to prepare your bat or the blade as it is commonly referred to. A little bottle of good quality linseed oil, a fiber plaster tape to protect your playing surface, a ball hammer or a bat mallet.
You must first oil the bat. This is to be done once a year and maybe twice a year in hot and humid countries. The purpose of oiling the blade is to keep the bat from drying and thus eventually cracking. While it is important to oil, it is also very important that you do not apply too much oil to a blade. Use your bare finger and dip it in linseed oil. Now finely coat the entire surface of the bat leaving out the just the areas covered by the stickers. Do not worry too much about getting a little oil on the stickers, it will not have any detrimental effect on the blade.
Once you have coated the blade with linseed oil, allow it to rest horizontally for 24 hours. It is very important that you do not rest it standing up as this will cause all the oil to seep downwards and ruin the bat.
Once you have oiled the blade, apply the fiber plaster tape on the playing surface to lock in the moisture. The fiber plaster will also protect the blade from deep seam marks. The next step is to season it. Bat manufacturers will usually give you guidelines on how to knock in a bat. In the absence of that, use a wooden mallet and slowly start to knock in the playing surface of the bat. It is best if you go as high up as the splice of the bat as there will be some contact there as well.
It is also important to season the edges. This is the most vulnerable part of the bat as a leading edge or outside edge at 80 miles per hour can easily crack it. To season the edges, strike the edges gently at a 45 degree handle. It is all right if you start to see the wood smudging a little bit. It is better that you do this rather than allow the ball to do it in a match for you.
You will know that you have knocked in your bat well when you hold up the bat at eye level and notice plenty of dents and an uneven surface of the blade. The next step is to have a few net sessions with an old ball before taking it out for a match.
If you really want to use a bat straight from the store, you should at least avoid the new ball as there is a 50% chance that you will break your brand new bat when facing a new ball.
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