Best Snap-on Industrial Brand JH Williams HBP-2 1-1/2 Pound Ball Pein Hammer

Snap-on Industrial Brand JH Williams HBP-2 1-1/2 Pound Ball Pein Hammer

List Price: $48.96

• 1 1/2 pounds
• Ideal for driving punches, chisels, and other metal work
• Wooden handles, which are made from white hickory and clear lacquered, are permanently wedged into the heads
• Hammer heads are drop forged from specially selected steel
• Carefully heat treated for dependable strength, hardness, and uniformity

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Softball Hitting - Guide to Batting Successfully

▷▷▷Softball Hitting - Guide to Batting Successfully

There is more to softball hitting than just natural ability. With the right training and equipment, any player can develop the skills she needs to bat successfully. Use these tips as a guide through the different factors affecting players' batting, and learn how each player can become a top hitter.

Proper Positioning

No matter what the age level of a softball team, it is always important to go over proper positioning when approaching the plate. Players who are reminded of optional hitting technique will be more successful at the plate and be less likely to become injured.

Grip - Hitters should hold the bat with the base of their fingers, not their palms. Keep the knuckles almost in line with each other. Players should remember to drop their pinky finger below the knob on the bat. This will provide them with more leverage and increase their bat speed. Stance - Start with weight on the back foot, and then shift the balance of weight to the front foot during the swing. This will generate more power behind the swing. Start with the bat making contact with the right shoulder (if batting right-handed). The swing should end with the bat on the left shoulder. This stance and follow-through will allow for proper batting mechanics and keep the head low throughout the swing. Swing - Use both hands to lead the swing, so that the bat is the last thing through the strike zone. Contact should be made with the ball slightly in front of the body, because this is where the most speed is generated. Aim for the bottom half of the ball so that it will be carried further by the hit.

Train the Muscles - And the Eyes

The stronger the batters' arms are, the more powerful the hit. These training exercises will increase arm strength for a faster and more effective swing:

The Hammer - For this training exercise, the player holds out the bat in a vertical position with the arm extended. The batter then lowers the bat in a hammering motion, working the muscles in the forearms and wrists. The player can adjust her choke on the bat if it is too heavy or light, and should alternate hands (and then use both hands) for 10-20 repetitions. Windshield Wiper - For this training exercise, the player again holds the bat in a vertical position with the arms extended. This time, the hitter moves the bat from left to right, like a windshield wiper, instead of up and down, like a hammer. This exercise strengthens wrists and improves torque. Again, alternate hands for 10-20 repetitions.

Players should train their eyes by first watching the pitcher as a whole. Then, as she starts the pitch, shift the focus to her arm and hand. Finally, zero in on the ball. This shift from a wide to narrow focus will improve ability to judge pitches.

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Selectorized Machines Versus Free Weights

▷▷▷Selectorized Machines Versus Free Weights

To provide an informed comparison of free weights and selectorized machines it is first necessary to have an explicit understanding of their purpose - both what it is and how it is best accomplished. The reason for the numerous misconceptions that exist surrounding the subject is that the majority of people claiming expertise and making authoritative statements on the issue lack this understanding, as well as understanding of related concepts such as motor learning and skill transfer, and basic mechanical physics.

It is important to note that there are currently over fifty companies manufacturing a wide variety of selectorized machines, and the overwhelming majority of these are incorrectly designed. This article is only concerned with properly designed machines.

The purpose of performing an exercise is to fatigue or inroad the strength levels of the involved muscular structures to a meaningful degree to stimulate a growth mechanism. Ideally, this should occur within some minimum time frame to avoid using any more of the body's limited metabolic resources than necessary, since those same resources are required for recovery and growth. There are a variety of factors which affect how efficiently an exercise accomplishes this. Some of these include how well the resistance is balanced to the users strength in different positions over the range of motion, whether the targeted musculature is loaded directly, and how well the exercise facilitates focus and concentration on the targeted musculature.

Variable Resistance

A person's usable strength changes from position to position during any movement due to the effects of friction, myofibril congestion, virtual cam effects resulting from the changes in tendon insertion angles and other factors, as well as changes in leverage resulting from the changing angles of the involved bones during multi-joint movements. If we graph these changes in usable strength over the full range of motion of any particular exercise, we have what is referred to as the strength curve for that exercise.

The resistance provided by free weights or machines can also vary over the range of motion of an exercise due to changes in leverage or torque. This change in resistance over the range of motion is what is referred to as the resistance curve for that exercise.

Ideally, this resistance should vary in proportion to the strength curve of the involved muscular structures, increasing in positions where they are stronger and decreasing in positions where they are weaker. This makes it possible to meaningfully load the muscles continuously throughout the exercise and achieve the desired level of inroad with little or no energy wasted. The less wasted during exercise, the more available to the body afterwards for recovery and growth.

In free weight exercises involving rotation around a single joint such as barbell curls, dumbbell lateral raises, and dumbbell chest flies, the resistance curve resulting from the change in torque over the range of motion matches a portion of a sinusoidal curve (see figure A below). This does not match the strength curve for most rotary movements, however, which require an exponential decrease in resistance towards the end of the range of motion (see figure B below). While some free weight exercises can be performed in a manner in which the resulting resistance curve more closely approximates the strength curve of the involved muscles, perfect congruence is difficult, if not impossible to accomplish.

Figure A - The resistance curve resulting from the strict performance of a barbell curl.

If the resistance provided by an exercise does not vary in proportion to the strength curve the amount of weight that can be used is limited to how much one is capable of handling in the position where the resistance is greatest. This is commonly known as the sticking point in free weight exercises. As a result, the involved muscular structures are only meaningfully loaded over a small portion of the range of motion of the exercise. During the rest of the exercise the relatively lower resistance allows the muscles a respite during which some motor units may recover more than if the muscles encountered meaningful resistance over the full range of motion. This reduces the rate of inroad resulting in less efficient growth stimulation.

In a properly designed machine a cam or system of levers varies the resistance over the full range of motion in proportion to the strength curve of the involved muscles, increasing it in positions where the muscles are stronger and decreasing it in positions where they are weaker. This provides continuously meaningful loading during the exercise, and inroads the muscles strength levels more efficiently. Less of the body's limited resources are wasted in the process of stimulating the muscles to grow, leaving more for recovery and growth.

The ideal resistance curve for nearly all single joint exercises as well as compound pulling exercises such as the bent-over barbell row, which require an exponential resistance decrease, can only be provided by a properly designed machine. In compound pushing movements, however, such as the squat and various presses, the relatively flat resistance curve provided by the near vertical movement of a barbell will provide a relatively balanced variation in resistance. Assuming that proper turnaround technique is used and lockout is avoided, these will load the muscles relatively efficiently.

Figure B - Comparison of arm flexion strength curve with the resistance curve of a strict barbell curl. Most compound pushing movements require a relatively flat resistance curve. Most compound pulling and rotary movements require an exponential resistance decrease over the last half of the movement.

Direct Resistance

In many barbell exercises the amount of resistance that can be used is limited by the strength of weaker intermediary structures, preventing the targeted muscular structures from being loaded as meaningfully as possible. In a properly designed machine, the resistance can be applied directly to the target muscles without going through a weak link, which allows them to be inroaded more efficiently.

A good example of this is the barbell squat. Although the barbell squat is a highly productive exercise it is not as effective as a properly designed leg press for targeting the musculature of the hips and thighs since it requires those muscles to be loaded through the weaker musculature of the low back. As a result the amount of weight one can handle in a barbell squat is limited by the strength of the lower back.

A properly designed leg press loads the muscles through the hips, so the weight that can be used is only limited by the strength of the hip and thigh muscles. While the barbell squat provides a greater amount of stimulation to the body as a whole due to the involvement of a larger amount of muscle, a leg press machine will provide greater growth stimulation for the musculature of the hips and thighs.

The muscles of the chest, back and shoulders can only be indirectly loaded through the weak links of the arm and grip muscles when using free weights. Direct resistance for these muscle groups is only possible with machines.

Balance

There is a common misconception that the need to balance a barbell, dumbbells or the body during free weight exercises requires greater muscular effort and provides more effective growth stimulation or growth stimulation to more of the body. This is not true, however, since very little muscular effort is required to balance something.

To balance an object is to keep it in a state of equilibrium, a state of rest produced by the mutual counteraction of two or more forces. For example, during a barbell bench press, the mutual counteraction of the the latissimus and deltoids prevents flexion or extension of the shoulder outside of a very narrow range, maintaining balance of the barbell over the shoulder joint throughout the movement. Since the load is being balanced upon the end of an effective lever which is almost perfectly vertical, even if the balancing force is being applied very close to the fulcrum (a mechanical disadvantage) the resistance or torque encountered at that point would be minimal.

The need for balance during free weight exercises is actually a disadvantage, since the skill of balancing an object or the body requires a certain amount of focus which detracts from one's ability to concentrate on contraction. By tracking muscle and joint function and eliminating the need to balance the resistance a machine allows for better concentration, and more intense contraction of the target musculature. Since there is no need to worry about losing one's balance or dropping a barbell or dumbbells, training to failure on a machine is also safer.

A related misconception is that the balance skills developed during the practice of free weight exercises transfer to other vocational or athletic activities. This is also not true. There is no positive transfer of balance skills from one activity to another. One can not improve their balance or any other skill in another activity by training with free weights. If you wish to improve your balance in the performance of a specific activity, the only way to do so is to practice that exact activity. To attempt to mimic an athletic or vocational activity while under load is neither an efficient way to exercise nor an effective means of improving skill in those activities.

Stabilization

Another common misconception is that it is necessary to perform free weight exercises in order to target certain stabilizer muscles. Realize that the term stabilizer is context dependent and refers to any muscle which acts to fix the position of one part of the body while other parts move. A muscle which acts as a stabilizer during one exercise acts as a prime mover or synergist during another. Although some muscles may be noticeably loaded while acting as stabilizers during certain exercises, such as those of the lower back during a bent-over barbell row, it is far more effective to target those muscles directly with exercises in which they are the prime mover. The involvement of a muscle as a stabilizer during either a free weight or machine exercise does not provide it with meaningful growth stimulation.

Conclusion

The proper use of free weights can produce an incredible degree of improvement in muscular strength and size, but the same results can be achieved more safely and efficiently with the use of properly designed machines. Therefore the current popular bias against machines has no rational basis. Regardless of the tools used, results are ultimately more dependent upon the method of training.

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Track and Field is a Popular Sport Event

▷▷▷Track and Field is a Popular Sport Event

Some track and field companies have been supplying top quality athletic equipments and goods to teams, leagues, clubs, individuals and corporate customers from more than a decade from their location. Their products are of top grade and suitable for all levels of athletic competition, training and game day needs.

Track and field is a sport event which consists of many events. Every track and field event falls under two categories: track or field. Track events are hurdles and running. Running events are called sprints or dashes. 100 meter running is the shortest race and is the most popular event in all track and field events. 200 and 400 meter dash are the other two popular track and field events. The other two popular short events are hurdles event in which the runner must leap over evenly spaced hurdles throughout the run. Men compete in 110 meter high hurdles or 400 meter, while women compete in 100 m hurdle race.

Within field events in track and field, there are two major categories: throwing and jumping. The 4 major throwing events are discus, shot put, hammer and javelin. Discus and javelin are used for long throws as they use a disc and long spear. Shot put is a heavy ball and the hammer is a heavy ball at the end of a chain, so both events involve shorter throws. The four important jumping events in track and field include long jump, triple jump, high jump and pole vault.

Athletic supplier companies supply all types of track and field equipments like Hammer, Hurdles, Starting blocks, kettlebells, weight benches and bars, shot put, Discus throw etc. Different types of discus equipments that they sell are Prestige Discus, target discus, training discus, Amazer, Premium and rubber discs.
Shot put is track and field athletic equipment which the athlete throws or puts a metal weight called a shot. The shot is referred as shot put. This athletic event is performed inside a 7 foot circle with a four inch tall toe board at the front edge. Shot put is made up of brass or any heavier metal, though brass and iron are most common. Shot put is a game which was included in the first modern Olympic Games in 1896 and has been an event in every summer Olympic Games since then.

Starting blocks track and field equipments are used by athletes at the start of sprinting events. In the race, runners are assigned lanes in the running track. To make the runner stay within the lane heavy, solid blocks known as starting blocks are provided. This device is used by professionals and advanced runners. If new runners use this device it can create a bad form or injure their underdeveloped leg muscles.

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Super Save!13% Nupla M-32SG Classic Ball Pein Hammer, SG Grip, 14" Long Handle

Nupla M-32SG Classic Ball Pein Hammer, SG Grip, 14" Long Handle

List Price: $36.22

• Nupla classic handles feature proprietary super duty nuplaglas for exceptional strength
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• Safest grip in the industry; can be used with gloves without slipping; only nupla has the super grip
• Reduces fatigue caused by strenuous oversqueezing of the handle

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Golf Lessons From A Beginning Golfer?

▷▷▷Golf Lessons From A Beginning Golfer?

Would you rather hear what you need to learn from someone who is already an accomplished golfer? Would a few hours with Jack Nicholas REALLY help your game? "Just do what I do, it's easy!" Or would you rather learn from a beginner, who understands the struggles, the small improvements and remembers those early changes that lead to greater success?

It almost makes sense, doesn't it? The best coaches are often mediocre players, and the worst coaches were stars, who had everything come easy to them. Natural ability is hard to teach to others! As a beginning golfer, I have noticed some dramatic improvements, though, and wanted to pass them along to other beginning golfers.

First, the drive. To many of us starting out, it seems to be all-important. I have had instructors tell me that if you can hit the ball 150 yards, that you can work your way down any length of hole in about 3 shots, chip on and putt in, and play bogie golf without ever hitting a John Daly type 300 yard plus drive. As beginners, all we see is the big drives, the pressure, people watching us tee off, and understandably we want to be able to pound the ball!

What I've learned is that you can cut back on the swing to almost a half swing, hockey slapshot type thing, and increase the accuracy, with a small reduction in distance, until you are more comfortable with the swing. Also, a friend helped me with the description of coming "inside-out" with the swing. While that sounds complicated, imagine holding your back hand (I'm a left handed golfer) tight to your body and swinging through the ball and outwards after contact - straightened out my ball flight and increased distance.

Lessons seemed to boil down to getting into the same position, and swinging smoothly and evenly making sure the club is flat at contact - try swinging at the driving range - not to hammer the ball, but try swinging with virtually NO effort, then 20% 40% 60% etc. Get comfortable with a straight line of whatever distance, and KNOW how far each club will take you. If you need 100 yards, say, it doesn't matter if you get that with a pitching wedge or a 5-wood, as long as you can get it accurately there!

Pitching (from under 100 yards) and putting are the majority of the strokes, the easiest area to improve your game, and if you've ever played with a senior, they can be outdriven from the tee, but play so solidly from there onwards, with straight, accurate shots - you can't beat them!

Makes you rethink the wisdom of working on that booming drive, huh? The majority of time should be spent practicing the 100 yard and shorter shots - which inadvertently improves the overall stroke and technique, and makes the drives better over time!

Practice shooting 10, 20, 30 etc yards, and have the short chip down pat. Then work on putting - NOT trying to sink the putt, just to get the ball to within a club length of the hole - from ANYWHERE on the green. When you have mastered the ability to get the ball close like that, then work on the short 2 footers - almost from the start you'll find that you can get the majority in.

THAT's the secret - the drive doesn't matter, the next shot is OK, but the one that gets the ball TO the green is crucial! Then if you can putt to withing a very close area of the pin, and make THOSE easy putts - you're a bogie golfer - TA DAAA!

Wait, there's one more thing - the mental part of golf. If you have a certain ability, how come you see flashes fo greatness on some days, and flashes of needing to break your clubs on others? Same guy, same equipment, different results? THAT is the mental part of golf - and it becomes more and moe important as you master the basic strokes and techniques.

At the beginning stages of golf, you are thrown off by worrying about what others think - it feels like people are watching your drive, partners are evaluating your game, people are seeing if you can play golf well, etc. The answer to this is that everyone started off as a beginner, and VERY few people can play below 90s golf. Basically, we all suck! Take the pressure off of yourself for the first 20-50 games, and you will have the routine ingrained, the swing will be solid, all will work fairly well - under pressure or not.

Relaxation, and realizing that golf is a game against YOURSELF, are the keys. You can't play a real tournament against another golfer until you shoot in the 70s - so don't let that enter your head - try playing alone - you can - very early or very late - or with total strangers as a walk on.

Over time, you WILL get better - visibly, noticeably. Try playing a few days in a row, or a series of days either playing golf or practicing. Practice makes perfect - especially the short game that is ignored by the majority pounding shots into the darkness at driving ranges - work on the touch, the feel, the magic ability to get 25%, 50% or 75% shots, to control the distance.

Most of all, relax and enjoy the walk, the scenery, remember the things that went WELL - and move on from the ones that were duffed, hooked into the trees, or when you putted back and forth across the green like a madman - they all happen - to ALL of us - even Tiger Woods (every now and then). The trick is to concentrate on making the NEXT shot, the NEXT hole, the NEXT practice or game - be your very best. There's no going back and reshooting that shot that went into the water! Forget about it and calmly, confidently move on.

Your best games, your best shots will occur when you have a calm, confident feeling, feeling that you are just repeating what you've practiced, and easily accomplished in the past. Look at the grin on Tiger's face as he sinks a putt and pumps his fist - this game can be FUN!!

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CV Axle Replacement and Halfshaft Removal - Replace the CV Or the Entire Half Shaft?

▷▷▷CV Axle Replacement and Halfshaft Removal - Replace the CV Or the Entire Half Shaft?

Changing C.V. (Constant Velocity) axles today is almost as common as doing brake jobs. But some CV axles can be pretty stubborn to remove. In this article learn some of the tricks I've used over the years as a Master Tech to make changing CVs and 1/2 shafts easier. Automotive specialty tools are sometimes needed to make the job easier, I'll discuss some of those and if it is better to replace the entire half shaft, the joint or just the CV boot.

Clicking On Turns

Since you're reading this you may already know that a common sign of a bad CV joint is popping and clicking on turns. A shudder on straight take offs could be a worn inner joint, but this is much less common. Outer joints have the most movement (like on turns), that's why outer boots usually wear more than the inner ones. CV boots are designed to pump grease throughout the joint during movement. Wear that causes outer joints to make noise can be accelerated if the CV boot breaks from dry rot or wear and the lubricating grease is lost. If the CV boot breaks, grease is thrown out of the joint by centrifugal force while driving. Without grease to keep the joint lubricated and cooler, its life is drastically reduced. Also outside elements like moisture and dirt can enter the joint,  further reducing its life expectancy. Once they wear, they make a clicking noise upon turns while accelerating. If they are noisy, the 1/2 shaft assembly may be the easiest way to go instead of replacing just the joint. CV 1/2 shaft prices have came down in the last decade and are more readily available than they used to be.

Removing the Half Shaft Assembly

The job of removing half shafts on most cars is mostly the same.

Remove the big nut that holds the joint to the wheel hub. It may be necessary to unbolt or un-clip the brake hose to prevent stretching it when removing the axle. The steering knuckle (where the brake rotor mounts), must either be loosened at the strut mount or at the lower ball joint to allow the shaft to slip out of the hub. Choose the easiest! The inner CV will either be held into the transmission by bolts or with a retaining clip (the clip is not visible). If there are no bolts on the inner joint, in most cases it will need to be pried out with a pry bar. Alternatively a slide hammer with a C.V. joint puller can be used to remove the inner joint from the transmission. 
Inspecting and Replacing Boots

You may be able to detect and replace worn boots before damage is done to the C.V. joint. If the boot has dry rot and is about to crack or has just recently split . And the CV joint doesn't make any noises yet, it has been caught it in time. The CV half shaft assembly can be removed and just the boot can be replaced with new grease of course. The CV boot kit also comes with two clamps and special grease. It is less expensive to re-boot a joint, but it is a little more labor intensive. On cars that I was familiar with, many times I changed the CV boot without taking the shaft completely out of the car. Usually though, the shaft is removed and placed in a vise to be worked on. The old boot is cut away to help reveal what type of retaining clip is holding the joint onto the 1/2 shaft.

When a cleaner is used, like brake clean and the joint is angled it's easier to see the clip. The joint may need to be turned while kept on an angle to see the clip. Most either require lock ring pliers to spread the lock ring or the joint can be struck sharply with a hammer (care must be taken not to damage the cage). If you have doubt on what type of retainer you are working with, consult a service manual for your specific model. Be aware that the ball bearings can fall out when the joint is off the shaft and the cage is turned sideways depending on the type it is. After cleaning and drying with compressed air, the grease bag can be cut on the corner and the grease is squeezed into the center of the joint. It's common to force out some of the old grease that was trapped while doing this. Scoop up and discard the old grease that may ooze out. Put the boot and joint back on the shaft by spreading the clip or tapping lightly with a brass hammer. Special CV joint boot clamp tools will be needed to tighten the bands properly. There are two basic types of clamps. There is a type that will be crimped with boot clamp pliers. The other type requires a banding tool, this type is wound and cranked tight using the same motion as you would with a can opener.

A common mistake is damaging the output seal in the transmission when removing or re-installing the axle. If the seal is damaged, transmission fluid will leak. Be careful to center the inner joint when putting it back in. Also a mistake that is made even by professionals is to either break the cir-clip that holds the axle in the transmission or to not install the axle completely IN. It is normal to feel a little movement in and out when pushing and pulling the inner joint when it is properly installed. If the retaining clip is broken or not fully inserted, the shaft can slip out enough that the car will not move! Also if tapping the shaft back into the transmission, be careful not to damage the outer threads. Remember if this is your first axle job, don't hesitate to have a buddy with experience on call!

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Bicep Workouts - 3 Key Exercises to Get Shredded Arms!

▷▷▷Bicep Workouts - 3 Key Exercises to Get Shredded Arms!

Here are a few great bicep workouts that many beginners seem to over look when starting out at the gym. Your bicep is broken up into 3 different parts, and different exercises work different sides of the muscle. I see so many guys at the college gym come in and go straight for the 2 armed cable curls then after 5 sets they are done, all because they got that "pump" that they were looking for. Don't get me wrong, I love the feeling of a rock hard pumped muscle after a good workout, however, this really is not getting you great results.
Try adding these exercises into your weekly bicep workout and I guarantee you will notice the difference in strength and size.

1. Seated 2 Arm Dumbbell Curl
This is definitely one of the staple bicep workouts, however it seems to be neglected by so many people. Seated on a bench, grab 2 moderate weight dumbbells, with your arms at your side, elbows at your side, and hands forward, simply raise both dumbbells up to your chest. Try to count 1-2-3 on the way back down to ensure a good negative. You want to do 3 sets of 8-10 reps. Remember the key things to focus on is to sit up straight, and never swing your elbows around, don't cheat your muscles, it will not get you any results. Also, try this exercise while sitting on a large yoga ball. This technique will help with working you core and stability muscles. Result, toned abs the ladies will love.

2. 1 Arm Cable Curls
For these bicep workouts, focus on keeping your arm nice and close to your body with your elbow at your side. This exercise specifically gives a great contraction at the top of your bicep. The key to this exercise over barbell curls is that each bicep has to pull its weight. Do 8-10 reps and then switch arms. Beginners only go max 2 sets and advanced go 3 sets.

3. Seated Concentrated Curls
This exercise will focus the muscle groups. Put your elbow so that it rests just below your inner thigh. Use full extension of the bicep and nice slow negatives on the way down. Remember just like any exercise, if you cheat yourself on your bicep workouts, you wont get the results. This exercise is a great way to finish your arms off for the day. Do 8-10 reps, and 3 sets.

Another thing to remember is that you can alternate between regular bicep curls and hammer curls. In case you don't know a hammer curl is used in all of the same workouts as stated above, but instead of having your hands facing forward with the dumbbells in them, face your hands to your sides. A great advantage of doing hammer curls as well is that it works more specifically on the outside of the bicep, as well as your forearms.

I hope that this has been insightful to many of you beginners.
Thanks.

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Cheap Nupla 06020 Ball Pein Hammer with 13" American Hickory Handle, 20oz Weight

Nupla 06020 Ball Pein Hammer with 13" American Hickory Handle, 20oz Weight

List Price: $22.95

• Used for striking chisels and punches
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7 Things You Can Do For Your Hammertoes and Why

▷▷▷7 Things You Can Do For Your Hammertoes and Why

Putting toes and hammers together often results in some major misfortune. So, as you might imagine, the condition called hammertoes isn't really an ideal state for the digits of your feet. (Although really, it's hard to say whether the name came about because the toes resemble hammers, or simply look as though they've been hammered.) When you have hammertoes, the joints of one or more toes become semi-permanently or permanently bent, making the middle joint of the toe jut up, just as if your toe had decided to take on the shape of a tent. Hammertoes often start out flexible, meaning you can still bend the joint-it just tends to revert to the crooked position when you leave it alone, although they do become inflexible over time. As the condition worsens, the joints become locked in place, which is not the way joints are supposed to behave.

Hammertoes may have several causes, but most commonly come about due to muscle imbalances. The tendons pulling the toe inward may be stronger than the ones that pull the toe straight, thus resulting in a toe that's bumped up in the middle. Hammertoes (or a tendency to develop them) might have been something you inherited from your parents (or grandparents, or third cousins), although they may also be caused or exacerbated by wearing shoes that scrunch the toes up into a small space (i.e. shoes with tiny little toe boxes and/or high heels-the usual lineup of suspects). They may also develop due to an injury, such as a break in the toe, or arthritis.

Some people may not experience uncomfortable symptoms until their condition is a little more advanced. However, the first sign that something's up is the visibly obvious bending of the toe upward at the middle toe joint, making the toe look like a hammer or a claw. This may be followed by pain or even corns on the top of that pointed toe joint (caused when your shoe rubs against the raised toe), and calluses on the ball of your foot (they form because the base of the toe is now jutting down abnormally and putting extra pressure on the ball of the foot).

As things get a bit more severe, the joint itself may begin to feel stiff and painful, and it may become inflamed (red, swollen, warm to the touch). Eventually, you may not be able to move the joint very well, or at all.

It's a good idea to go in to see your podiatrist when your toes begin to take on that hammer-like or clawed appearance, especially if you're finding it painful to walk because of the condition. Your podiatrist will likely make the diagnosis by examining your foot visually, and may test the joint for flexibility and pain. He or she may also suggest X-rays in order to get an insider's look at what's going on in your foot.

Treatment options are varied, and depend a great deal on how far progressed your hammertoes are.

1) When the joint's still pretty flexible, it may be possible to treat the condition entirely without surgery. This will likely be accomplished by your podiatrist prescribing orthotics (fancy shoe inserts designed specifically for you) that will help correct the imbalance in your foot that's causing the hammertoes.

2) Your podiatrist may also try taping the toes (that is-he or she will put tape on the toes, not take the toes in for a session in a recording studio) in order to straighten them and provide additional support.

3) Exercising your calves and toe muscles will also help provide additional strength and stability for your foot.

4) There are also a few things you can do to relieve some of the painful symptoms that come with hammertoes. You could try using pads to reduce the pressure on the tops of your toes: hammertoe pads or corn pads may be available over the counter, but you may want to avoid the medicated ones-the acid in the medication may be harmful, particularly to those with circulation problems.

5) If your toe joint is swollen and inflamed, you can try applying ice (20 minutes on, 40 minutes off, and always use a thin towel between the ice and your skin) or taking anti-inflammatory medication (ibuprofen, or you can talk to your podiatrist about a cortisone shot) to reduce inflammation.

6) Also, (and this may be an obvious one, but it's a method some people ignore), you should probably ditch the shoes with the tight toes and high heels. Give your toes plenty of room in the toe box (about half an inch past the end of each toe) and avoid heels over two inches (and lower, if possible), since they tend to squish your toes into the end of your shoe.

7) If doing all that doesn't really seem to help, or if your toes have gotten to the point where they refuse to bend at all (the stubborn little things), then it may be time to consider surgery. Your podiatrist knows a lot of options and can discuss which ones will be most likely to fit your particular needs.

Recovery time will vary, depending on what treatment method you use. But, if all goes well, you can once again have toes that resemble toes, and not something you find in a greasy toolbox.

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Water Hammer

▷▷▷Water Hammer

"Water Hammer" is generally caused by either high water pressure, loose pipes or faulty plumbing components.

Water hammer is a condition that occurs in buildings where copper water supply pipes make a banging sound as a tap is turned off or a loud squealing sound when a tap is running. It may also occur when a washing machine is filling.

So, is it possible to eliminate water hammer in your home? Definitely, by using one or more of the methods described below:

1) Securing pipes. Copper water pipes should be secured at intervals of no less than 1.2 metres; by re-securing the pipes at more regular intervals, the pipes cannot move or vibrate. By doing this, water hammer can be substantially reduced, if not totally eliminated.

2) Servicing of taps. Having damaged or worn washers or old taps replaced or serviced, including the meter tap, will at least reduce, if not rectify, water hammer problems.

3) Toilet Cisterns. Servicing or replacing faulty toilet cisterns or cistern taps will eliminate or reduce certain types of water hammer.

4) Hot water heaters. Hot water heaters and associated valves can also cause water hammer. Servicing of the heater and replacement of the faulty valves or incorrectly rated valves will rectify or reduce water hammer.

5) Hammer arrestors. These are devices that work like a shock absorber and when placed near the source of the hammer say near a washing machine supply pipe or washing machine tap will help reduce water hammer considerably.

6) Fixed and variable pressure limiting and reduction valves. Valves can be fitted where the water supply enters the property to reduce the water pressure. By reducing the pressure, the flow rate remains about the same, or slightly less, but the pressure is noticeably less. This reduction in pressure will have a marked effect on the water hammer, if not completely eliminating it, then at least greatly reducing it.

7) Fitting plastic water pipes. Where plastic pipes are fitted to a property, the most common "clanging, banging" type of water hammer is not present.

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Save!11% Stanley 54-008 8-Ounce Ball Pein Hammer

Stanley 54-008 8-Ounce Ball Pein Hammer

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• High carbon steel forged head, hardened and tempered
• Rim-Tempered face minimizes chipping, assures greater safety
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Cheap Nupla 06016 Ball Pein Hammer with 13" American Hickory Handle, 16oz Weight

Nupla 06016 Ball Pein Hammer with 13" American Hickory Handle, 16oz Weight

List Price: $21.95

• Used for striking chisels and punches
• Highly useful in metal fabrication and metal working
• Ball end of the hammer used in cutting gaskets, expanding and shaping the free end of copper roves

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Sprint Conditioning - 2 Great Sprinting Exercises to Improve Your Speed and Conditioning!

▷▷▷Sprint Conditioning - 2 Great Sprinting Exercises to Improve Your Speed and Conditioning!

If you know how to improve your sprinting speed and conditioning level of fitness then you need to find a flat open field and a couple of markers (cones) to set up. In order to improve your speed and total conditioning you will need to practice putting undue stress on your body by sprinting and implementing variations of sprints. Besides loading the body this is another way to challenge your nervous system to fire quickly which in turn will give you that explosive power you need for speed.

1. High Knees Into Sprints: This particular drill is a wonderful exercise to implement into your speed training program to get you used to firing your knees up in front of you and giving you that hip drive you need to propel your body forward. To start, all you need is about 30 yards of distance. Set up your markers at each end. Line up beside a marker. From here perform high-knee runs for the first 10 yards really concentrating on your running mechanics. You want to get as many high knees as possible within the first 10 yards. After the first 10 yards you will want to quickly transition into a full sprint for the remaining 20 yards. This drill is great for getting you conscious of your running mechanics and body control in order to improve your linear speed.

2. Power Skips Into Sprints: This particular drill is a great exercise to perform to transition from a more intense plyometric into a full sprint. To begin, line up on the marker. You will want to bound forward by alternating the bounds off of each foot. Do this for the first 10 yards and quickly transition into a full sprint for the remaining 20 yards. This is a great drill to improve your speed and conditioning by getting you used to quickly exploding off of each foot with each bound.

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Save! Nupla M20-ESG Ergo Power Ball Pein Hammer, SG Grip, 14" Long Handle

Nupla M20-ESG Ergo Power Ball Pein Hammer, SG Grip, 14" Long Handle

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• Safest grip in the industry; can be used with gloves without slipping; only nupla has the super grip
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• Reduces fatigue caused by strenuous oversqueezing of the handle

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Ball Joint Separator - Fix Your Front End

▷▷▷Ball Joint Separator - Fix Your Front End

If you have ever had to replace a ball joint with a pickle fork then you know that they can damage the boot and other parts of the suspension system. This leaves you with additional repairs that not only cost more money but take up your valuable time as well. What you need is a ball joint separator. This great little tool will make your life a whole lot easier and once you use it, you will laugh at how simple is removes those stubborn worn out joints that caused you so much trouble in the past.

This ball joint separator will remove the joint from the spindle arm with ease. It will work on both domestic and import vehicles, cars and trucks. So no matter what type of vehicle you have, you are pretty much covered.

I recently had to use this tool on my Honda Civic. It was so much easier that using a pickle fork and a hammer and within minutes, I had the old joint removed and I was ready to install the new one in it's place.

The joint separator is fully adjustable so it will fit many different applications. It can also be used for removing other parts too. It will work on universal joints and tie rod ends. Overall it is a worthwhile investment and it makes a great addition to any tool box. My dad always told me that you needed the right tool for the job and with this tool you will be working smart not hard!

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Buy Nupla M-20SG Classic Ball Pein Hammer, SG Grip, 13" Long Handle

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• Safest grip in the industry; can be used with gloves without slipping; only nupla has the super grip
• Reduces fatigue caused by strenuous oversqueezing of the handle

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One Handed Backhand in Tennis - How to Master the Stroke

▷▷▷One Handed Backhand in Tennis - How to Master the Stroke

With tennis becoming more and more of a power game, one of the shots that has become less common today is the one handed backhand. More and more tennis players are employing the two handed backhand to play their shots compared to the one handed alternative. The reasons are pretty clear, the two handed shot can be quite powerful and more accurate. 

However, the one handed backhand stroke can be equally lethal as well. This is especially true when you are not in a position to get your second hand to the racquet on time that a mastery over the one handed backhand stroke can help. Here are some tips to learn to hit a one handed backhand stroke. 

The first step is to get the right grip. Hold your racquet like you would be holding a hammer. The racquet should not be perpendicular. So if you are a right handed player, use your left hand to slightly tilt the head of your racquet towards the right. As the ball comes to you, move your racquet away from the ball so that your playing shoulder is close to parallel to the base line. You may use the non-playing hand to slightly steady the racquet at this stage. 

The most critical part of the shot is the swing. Remember to give a slightly upward push to the ball as you swing as this will give it a top spin along with the backhand shot. All along, never take your eye of the ball as this will help you place the ball at exactly the intended spot.

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Fastening to Masonry Guide

▷▷▷Fastening to Masonry Guide

To secure most items to a concrete, brick, or cinder-block wall, you will need to drill a hole and insert a wall fastener. Use lead anchors for most loads and expansion shields for exceptionally heavy ones. Use plastic anchors and fiber plugs for very light items.

To drill a hole in masonry, use a carbide-tipped bit on an electric drill, preferably a variable-speed model that will let you drill at a low speed. As you drill, move the bit in and out rather than pushing hard and continuously on it. If the drill begins to stall, release the trigger or you will burn out the motor.

Bear in mind to always wear safety goggles and work gloves when drilling into a masonry.

If your drill lacks the power to drive a big bit into solid concrete or brick, try drilling a small hold first, then a larger one. Or rent a half inch variable-speed drill.

On a cinder-block or a hollow-tile wall, another good fastener is a toggle bolt. Drill a hole for it with a carbide-tipped bit. Then install the fastener as you would on a hollow wall. Drill a test hole first to make sure the block's hollow interior has enough space to accommodate the bolt's wings.

You can attach boards that will carry light loads with either cut nails or masonry nails. Because these nails tend to split wood, first drill a hole in the board for each nail. Make it slightly smaller than the widest part of the nail. If a wall is very hard, drill holes for the nails in the wall too.

Cut nails and masonry nails can chip a claw hammer, causing flying metal particles. Always drive them in with a ball peen hammer or light sledgehammer.

Ball Hammer

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Lowest price Nupla 06008 Ball Pein Hammer with 11.25" American Hickory Handle, 8 oz. weight

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The Easy Steps to Set Up a Tattoo Gun

▷▷▷The Easy Steps to Set Up a Tattoo Gun

Every profession has tools of the trade, and the tattoo industry is no exception. All the ink, flash, stencils and needles in the world would be worthless without the tattoo gun. Your tattooist will definitely know what you're talking about when you used the word "gun", but it's a generally thought of as an amateur term. Professionals usually just say "machine" or use the term "iron".

The first tattoo machines where based on something Thomas Edison (that's right, that Thomas Edison) invented in the year 1876 called the Autograph Engraver. The device was originally meant to be an engraving machine. The design was improved upon some years later by a man named Samuel O'Rielly who came up with and needle and rod system and ink reservoir. The modern day machine has evolved quite a lot since O'Rielly's version. The first apparatus resembling the current model was so heavy; it was often mounted to the ceiling with a spring so that the majority of the weight was taken off the tattooist's hand.

The version used today allows for much more precision in depth, saturation, everything. In fact, the art of tattoo application has become so precise that dermapigmentation, or applying permanent cosmetics to the delicate skin of the face and eyelids is possible and popular. The gun works on an alternating current system, similar to a sewing machine. The needle moves between 80 and 150 times per second, speeding up the process, cutting down on skin irritation and allowing the artist to work without moving very much so that his hand remains as steady as possible.

The needles are soldered into tubes in all different numbers and arrangements. The purpose in having a variety of configurations is the same as a more conventional artist having more than one paint brush. Each one produces a different effect. Some are for outlining, some are for shading to varying degrees and some create a solid fill. The general mechanics of a tattoo gun are fairly simply. In fact, some inventive person could put one together at home with parts of things you probably have lying around the house. There are several very good reasons you should never, ever do this, injury and disease to name just two, but since when has that stopped everybody?

* An ink pen

* Guitar string

* A tooth brush, or something similar (you'll see in a minute)

* The eraser from the top of a #2 pencil

* A small, battery operated motor, like what would be in a hand held cassette player

* Tape, or some sort of adhesive to hold it all together

* Some sewing needles

First you take four or five inches of guitar string and bend a little bit toward the end. Next, you remove the tube of ink from the pen. Cut it down to three or four inches long, then remove the brass ball at the end, making sure the opening created is large enough for a needle to pass through. Insert the needle into the tube. Then decapitate the toothbrush. Use a lighter, or some other flame to heat the plastic just until it's soft enough to bend, and then do so in an L shape.

Then, use your adhesive of choice to join the tube/needle combo to the long end of the L. Gently push the eraser onto the motor's shaft, getting it as centered as possible, then attach the motor to the short end of the L. Stick the bent end of the guitar string should be pushed (off center) into the eraser, and the other end should go through the tube and attached to the needle. The thinner the tube, the more control you will have over the gun. Now that you know how to manufacture a tattoo machine, DON'T!

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The Four Phases of Baseball Players Workout Preparation

▷▷▷The Four Phases of Baseball Players Workout Preparation

Almost all power preparation programs used for athletics are divided into individual separate phases. Each period has its individual purpose and builds on the period before. So, for instance, the main period could make a concrete source of power, preparing the body for further strenuous preparation down the line. A different period may possibly focus on rising supreme power or muscle bulk. The period pursuing with the purpose of can intend to convert power into sport-specific momentum of muscular endurance. In baseball we can cut the period of time into these 4 phases:

* Off-Season - additionally named the "closed season" or else passage period, while a small amount or no contending baseball game is played

* Early preseason - This is the point once players initially return following the intermission. Preparation is normally more broader and gradually eases into added intensified sessions

* Late preseason - preparation ought to exist on its most intensified throughout the late preseason. The purpose is to max out as the competing period of time begins

* In-Season - preparation in the competing period of time is roughly maintaining the improvement developed for the duration of the preseason. The magnitude of preparation tends to be lessen to suit games.

Splitting a yearly course up similar to this is a case of periodization. The 12-month course is the huge diagram, which can be broken down into less significant periods or phases (as appearing in the listing above). But periodization does not come to an end there...

Each one period can be divided into lesser phases again (often named cycles) and the littlest interval - the micro cycle - is ordinarily one period of preparation. Inside all period, all interval and all period, the magnitude and quantity of preparation varies. Relate that to the normal human who aims to lift heavier and heavier weights for additional and additional repetitions indefinitely.

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Mark Twain's Old West Adventures Told in 'Roughing It'

▷▷▷Mark Twain's Old West Adventures Told in 'Roughing It'

Mark Twain's delightful adventures in the Old West are told with wit and enthusiasm in his tongue-in-cheek memoir, "Roughing It."

The work tells of his journey and adventures in Nevada Territory from 1861-67. He went there with his older brother, Orion, who was at the time the newly appointed Secretary of the Nevada Territory. This great adventure tale supposedly is based on Twain's own memories of the trip, plus heavy consultations of Orion's diary.

At one time, "Roughing It" was pretty standard fare for high school and college students. I remember reading it in high school. If you've never had the fun of reading Twain, and if you're truly interested in the Old West, you need to pick up a copy of "Roughing It" right away. It's a terrific read, and has passages that will make you smile as well as sections that are guaranteed to make you laugh out loud.

Early in the book, Twain tells of the start of their stagecoach trip from St. Joseph, Missouri, to Carson City, Nevada. In that chapter (chapter two, I believe) Twain has a classic description of one of their fellow stage travelers, George Bemis, and Bemis's sidearm:

"We had never seen him before. He wore in his belt an old original "Allen" revolver, such as irreverent people called a "pepper-box." Simply drawing the trigger back, cocked and fired the pistol. As the trigger came back, the hammer would begin to rise and the barrel to turn over, and presently down would drop the hammer, and away would speed the ball.

"To aim along the turning barrel and hit the thing aimed at was a feat which was probably never done with an 'Allen' in the world. But George's was a reliable weapon, nevertheless, because, as one of the stage-drivers afterward said, 'If she didn't get what she went after, she would fetch something else.' And so she did. She went after a deuce of spades nailed against a tree, once, and fetched a mule standing about thirty yards to the left of it. Bemis did not want the mule; but the owner came out with a double-barreled shotgun and persuaded him to buy it, anyhow.

"It was a cheerful weapon -- the 'Allen.' Sometimes all its six barrels would go off at once, and then there was no safe place in all the region round about, but behind it."

In addition to numerous such tongue-in-cheek accounts of his travels and adventures, Twain's narrative gives authentic, first-person knowledge about the times and fashions of the Old West during the years of his travels there. For example, those first two chapters telling of his and Orion's stagecoach adventure in St. Joseph and westward adds this glimpse of the nature of such overland travel: They were required to quickly rummage through their large travel trunks and pick out only 25 pounds of luggage apiece. Everything else had to be shipped back to St. Louis.

I urge you to get a copy of "Roughing It" if you don't yet have one. It's a great glimpse by a classic writer into life in the settlements and mining camps of Nevada Territory. And it's a typically joyous Twain read.

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Sledgehammer Fitness

▷▷▷Sledgehammer Fitness

One of the more unlikely tools in our fitness equipment armoury is the sledgehammer. Surprisingly the manual-labour tool doubles as a superb total body muscular endurance exercise, a great power developer, a very effective weight management method and a way to increase both aerobic and anaerobic endurance. In terms of cost, effectiveness and versatility, sledgehammer training makes a great addition to almost any training programme.

Let's look at the reasons why sledgehammer training is so good...

1) Swinging a sledgehammer is a full body activity. Swinging the sledge uses just about every muscle group...the muscles of the forearms are used in gripping, the latisimus dorsi muscles of the back are used in the downward phase of a strike whereas the deltoid muscles around the shoulders are used in the return to the overhead position. The core including the rectus abdominus and obliques work very hard in the downward phase of sledgehammer swings along side the hip flexors. And even the legs get involved as they have to keep you anchored to the floor. You'd be hard pressed to find a muscle group not involved in swinging the sledge!

2) Multiple fitness components can be trained with a sledgehammer. By using a variety of rep and set schemes (discussed later) it is possible to target power, muscular endurance, cardiovascular fitness and anaerobic conditioning. Regardless of your goal, sledgehammer training will probably make a fine addition to your current training routine.

3) Sledgehammer training is very cost effective. Many of you will have a sledgehammer in your basement or garage but even if you have to go and buy one especially for exercise they are very reasonably priced and easy to get hold of. My hammer came from a regular DIY store and cost or about £16.00 and it's very unlikely it will ever wear out. As a striking surface I like to use and old SUV tire I picked up for free from a local tire dealer. Most tire dealers are only too happy for you to take away an old tire as they have to pay to have them collected.

4) Training with a sledgehammer is fun! You get to hit something as hard as you can, as often as you like with no legal ramifications! It's a great way to work off the frustrations of the day leaving you calm and relaxed after your workout. It's very therapeutic!

5) The techniques are very easy to learn. Swinging the sledgehammer is a natural movement which is quickly mastered. It's a very instant workout which, although simple, can be as demanding as you make it.

6) Sledgehammer training is great for fat loss. Any sledgehammer training will burn plenty of calories but probably the best way to get the most of your hammer workout is to utilise intervals. Interval training is probably the most efficient and effective method for fat loss available and out performs steady state cardio almost every time in calorie expenditure tests. Because of EPOC (what we used to call Oxygen Debt) your body will not only burn lots of energy during a sledgehammer workout but also continue burning energy at an elevated rate long after your workout has finished. It's like getting two workouts for the price of one! Combined with a calorie controlled diet, sledgehammer intervals are a superb way to shed a few pounds while toning and strengthening the whole body.

Equipment...

Clearly, you'll need a sledgehammer. You can pick one up from a regular DIY store for a very fair price. In terms of what weight to buy I suggest from 6lbs for lighter exercisers and those looking to swing at a higher cadence to 15lbs for bigger exercisers or for those looking for a slower cadence. I am an experienced and fairly advanced exerciser and I mainly use a 10lb hammer and have only recently started using a 14lb hammer and I have never found my lighter hammer to provide an easy workout.

For striking surfaces you have a couple of choices. As previously mentioned, an old tire is a great target. A tire will absorb some of the shock of the impact, thus reducing noise, impact on the hands/wrists as well as making the hammer bounce slightly to aid in setting a good rhythm. This is my preferred striking surface and the one you will see in the video accompanying this article. Alternatively you may choose to use your hammer outside where you may have access to a sand pit, an area of soil, an old log stump or something similar. There is nothing wrong with any of these surfaces so long as they have a "bit of give" which will reduce the shock you'll feel when you use the hammer. I have used my hammer on a deserted beach which and that worked fine except I ended up with a light dusting of sand all over my sweaty head!

Which ever surface you choose for your sledgehammer training, always ensure you have plenty of space around you and clearance above your head and that the surface you are hitting has some "give" to it. Hard surfaces like concrete or cement are not recommended.

If you are using your hammer for high reps, I also suggest a pair of robust gloves. I use basic work gloves which I bought for about to avoid any blisters however if I'm doing sets of 20 strikes or less I often don't use my gloves and have had no ill effects.

Swinging Techniques...

Swinging the hammer isn't technically demanding but it does require some coordination. It's important to have sound technique before going crazy with your hammer otherwise there is a possibility of serious self-inflicted injury. There are a few "schools of thought" when it comes to hammer swinging - all of which work well and it's really a matter of personal preference as to which one you select. In the accompanying video you'll see the following swinging techniques...left hand lead, right hand lead, alternating hands and "no choke" where both hands are kept near the end of the hammer handle. In addition you'll also see me stood on the ground and also on top of the tire which provides a unique challenge for more advanced exercisers...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_bNUIDrRnUk 

Routines...

Here are a few suggested methods for getting the most out of your hammer training. Be prepared to scale the workouts listed to suit your individual needs and goals. Make sure you warm up thoroughly before your workout and also start slowly, building up volume and intensity gradually so as to avoid any unnecessary soreness or possible injuries.

Timed intervals Decide on a work to rest ratio (e.g. 2 minutes of work, 1 minute of rest) and repeat for the desired number of sets. One of my favourite interval schemes is 3 minutes of striking (left hand on top) rest 1 minute, 3 minutes of striking (right hand on top) rest one minute, 3 minutes of alternating hand on top. This scheme provides a great finish to a regular workout or is a nice stand-alone mini session when time is short. No matter what set/rep scheme you select just make sure you work really hard during the "on" periods and you'll find interval training a very effective, time efficient training method.

The duration of your work/rest intervals is very much goal dependent...

Shorter sets e.g. less than 20 seconds are excellent for developing maximum force and therefore increasing muscle power Medium length sets are ideal e.g. 45 - 90 seconds are ideal for improving muscular endurance and anaerobic conditioning Longer sets e.g. 2 minutes and above are best suited to the development of aerobic fitness and muscular endurance.
Tabata intervals The Tabata Method is named after Dr. Izumi Tabata - a sports scientist from the National Institute of Fitness and Sports in Tokyo, Japan and is a High Intensity Interval Training (HIIT) protocol which has been successfully used by the Japanese Olympic speed skating team amongst others to improve aerobic and anaerobic conditioning using very brief workouts.

During his 1997 study Dr Tabata compared the effects of longer, lower intensity exercise with bouts of short very high intensity exercise. Using a unique interval training method the athletes participating in the study increased their aerobic fitness by 14% and anaerobic fitness by 28% in just 8 weeks! It's worth noting that the subjects Dr Tabata used for testing were already accomplished sportsmen and not just beginners which make this study even more astounding. Even more incredible is the fact that the total actual training time per week was an unbelievable 30 minutes.

The Tabata method involves performing 8 - 10 sets of 20 seconds very high intensity exercise separated with 10 second recovery periods giving a total training time = 4 - 5 minutes. The caveat of the Tabata Method is that all the intervals have to be done at 100% intensity - an absolute flat out effort. You have to strive to perform as much work in each 20 second interval as possible and try to maintain that work rate for the 8 - 10 sets. The old adage that you can train long and easy, or short and hard has never been truer than when describing the Tabata Method! As with any type of exercise, Tabata Method should be preceded by an appropriate warm up of 5 - 10 minutes and followed by a cool down of similar duration. All in all the session could take as little as 15 minutes...perfect for anyone who is short on time but still wants great results from their training.

Repetition intervals With this system, instead of using time as our measure of work, you'll be using repetitions instead. For example you may do 20 strikes and then rest 30 seconds and repeat for as many sets as desired. Another one of my favourite sessions involves doing 20 strikes every minute for 10 - 15 minutes. Each set takes between 35 - 45 seconds leaving 15 - 25 seconds to rest before I start the next set. The beauty of sets starting on the minute is that you just need to be able to see the sweep hand of a clock so there is no need to push buttons or programme intervals into a stop watch.

Timed density blocks Allocate a time block e.g. 5 or 10 minutes and aim to perform as many strikes as possible in the allotted time. Whenever this workout is repeated you should strive do more reps than the last time

Timed repetitions Simply set your self a repetition goal and try to complete it as short a time as possible e.g. 300 swings, 500 swings or even 1000 swings. Whenever you repeat this workout you should strive to do it quicker than before.

Hammer & callisthenic combinations Alternate hammer swings with free-standing bodyweight exercises such as squats or lunges as seen in the later part of the video. This ensures the lower body gets a good workout along with the upper body and is a great way of getting a lot done in a short time.

As I'm sure you can see, sledgehammer training is a very versatile training method that can suit a large number of training goals so why not give it a go - I'm sure you'll find it both fun and an effective workout.

Ball Hammer

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How To Remove Lane Conditioner From A Bowling Ball

▷▷▷How To Remove Lane Conditioner From A Bowling Ball

Lane Conditioner (oil) can reduce the effectiveness of a ball when it soaks in. There are a number of ways to address the problem.

One of the easiest ways to get oil out, is to not let lane conditioner (oil) get in. I'm a big fan of wiping the ball off before every shot. Terry cloth or microfiber towels help remove oil from the surface actively as you bowl. By keeping the surface clean, you don't get oil, all ready on the ball from the last shot, impeding ball reaction. Manufacturer recommended cleaners or cleaner/polishes will help minimize oil absorption after play is completed.

The key, to addressing the oil in the ball problem, is, how and to what "degree" you subject your bowling ball to heat. Ebonite International will tell you, hot tap water (usually 120 degrees or so, HOTTER is NOT better) will warm the surface and float the oil off the ball. You'll need a bucket or container big enough to hold a bowling ball. You must soak the ball (submerge it in the bucket or container) for half an hour, or thereabouts. You will need to deal with slimy finger grips (if installed) and soggy tape (don't leave it in while submerging).

Still oily, do it again. Let dry at room temperature.

A final wipe down with rubbing alcohol or manufacturer recommended cleaner/cleaner polish and you are ready, once again, to roll. Anything added to an alcohol solvent (fragrance, color like in household cleaners) will leave a residue, which can lead to other problems.

Another option, the Ebonite company does have a system (called Hook Again) using dry chemicals to draw oil out of a bowling ball.

Also, recent Brunswick research shows that a controlled system to sweat balls of oil has merit. Be careful, opinions vary. The Ebonite company doesn't sanction any heating of the covers of their bowling balls (as in sun, oven, etc.) as a solution to oil absorption and reaction loss.

Storm/Roto Grip and Ebonite/Hammer/Columbia/Track point out that warming a ball too quickly creates problems, the least of which is a voided warrantee. Oil comes out but so does some of the chemical structure of the cover (plasticizers), causing (they feel) brittleness and loss of structural integrity.

Warm coverstock surface and cool core occasionally split apart, called core separation.

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Napolitano Pizza Crust Dough - Recipe

▷▷▷Napolitano Pizza Crust Dough - Recipe

Becoming a Pizzailo

Once you try this dough, I suspect you will never go back. It is a classic Napolitano pizza dough learned from a pizzailo (pizza chef) from Napoli (Naples, Italy). You will get about 12 to 14 pizza dough balls from the ingredients which will make that many 11 inch pizzas. There are several secrets to the Napolitano dough that should be remembered. Never use anything but 00 flour (I suggest Caputo 00 flour which can be purchased in the US and is imported from Napoli). I know it is difficult, but don't even think about using a rolling pin or bread-dough machine. You will be tempted when you break into a sweat, but stick with your hands and fists. It will make a huge difference. And remember, it takes at least 4 to 8 hours for the dough to rise after you have finished.

Ingredients for 12 to 14 dough balls:

4 cups water at 75 to 80 degrees F (this is more cool than warm) 1/2 teaspoon dry yeast (compressed yeast cake is better but hard to find in the US - use 0.2 oz instead, if you can find) 8 teaspoons sea salt 4 lbs Caputo 00 flour (or equivalent 00 flour)

The fun part

Combine the water and salt in a large mixing bowl and mix with one hand until completely dissolved. Add the dry yeast to the salt water and mix until you are sure that it is completely dissolved. You may have to let it stand for a few minutes until you see the dry yeast absorb the water.

The messy part
Now here is where it gets messy. Add the flour gradually while mixing with whichever hand you prefer. You should stop once the dough stops sticking to the bowl. I generally spend about 5 to 10 minutes. Don't get discouraged at first when the dough sticks to your hand and feels like it will never come off. As you add more flour, the dough will come off. If it starts to feel lumpy stop adding flour until the lumps disappear. Then add more flour if there is any left.

Time to rest
When the dough starts to feel smooth and the bowl is mostly cleaned, stop mixing. Place the dough ball on a lightly floured surface and cover with a damp cool cloth for 5 minutes. It is extremely important to catch your breath at this point, because you will need all the strength you can muster for the kneading.

The hard times - you need to knead
After five minutes, take the large ball of dough and throw it down hard on your counter or table top 3 times. The process should elongate the dough. Now place the dough perpendicular to your waist. Ok, here we go. Start at one of the ends and hammer away with your fists moving along the elongated dough. Each fist should hit the dough as parallel to the surface as you can get (be careful not to bang up your knuckles by hitting the table - I have had a spastic attack a few times doing this and skinning them up). Once your fist hits the dough roll it up and over the dough. You just march your way down the dough alternating fists. Once you get to one end, come back doing the same thing. Keep doing this until the dough stretches far enough away from you that it is uncomfortable to knead. At this point, just roll up the dough (like a jelly roll) and throw it down on the surface 3 times repeating the process. Keep kneading in 5 minute intervals allowing yourself to have a one minute rest in-between. It should take about 30 minutes of kneading until the dough turns a lighter color and becomes smoother in texture. If you have not worked up a sweat, then you are not working hard enough. Once you have finished form the dough into a large ball and cover with a cool damp cloth for 15 minutes. The hard part is over!

Pinching dough
Purists demand that you never pull the dough apart while forming individual pizza balls (they say it can change the taste). In keeping with the tradition, take the ball and elongate it a bit and start to pinch 7 to 8 oz dough balls off. You can squeeze or pinch the dough between your thumb and index finger and use your other hand to force dough back in-between the thumb and index finger while you are pinching. This helps to thin the dough so it will drop off while you are squeezing. Remember to pinch until if freely drops off (don't twist the dough). I use a scale to make sure I have 7 to 8 oz balls which I roll and place in a lightly floured dough box. After all the balls are in the dough box, lightly sift flour over each and then cover the box. Let stand at room temperature at least 4 to 8 hours. If you want to wait until the next day, retard it by placing in the refrigerator over night, but make sure you let it rise for 4 to 8 hours after you have retarded it overnight.

There is going to be only one way you get good at this - practice, practice, and practice more. The nice part is that you will get to eat a lot of great pizza as you practice. Next see the perfect pizza sauce and the final pizza

Jack Botticelli.

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